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stretch cotton twill...help!
Rhegan
Rhegan
Member since 12/20/11
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Date: 7/23/12 2:55 PM

I bought some stretch cotton twill 3% lycra for a skirt and I prewashed and ironed it now it is 1inch larger on one end than the other, and varies in between. I am trying to lay out my pattern but I cant get a consistent measurement from grainline to selvage edge, is there anything I can do about this?

I bought this fabric because it was a great weight and colour but I also wanted to line it. So I am assuming that will negate any stretch am I setting myself up for disappointment?
-- Edited on 7/23/12 3:07 PM --
-- Edited on 7/23/12 3:09 PM --

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to Rhegan <<


Date: 7/23/12 3:23 PM

I have a couple of questions. Was it ok before you washed it? Did you wash and dry on high? Cotton is sturdy, lycra not so much. You can ruin lycra with a hot dryer. You could maybe cut it one piece at a time to place the pattern in the best places on the fabric. I am not sure what the issue is but you could also wash and dry again but on low to see if it is better. You can also try straightening out the grain. To do this you need a partner--each of you need to grab an opposite corner of the fabric (lengthwise) and stretch gently but firmly-then grab the other corners and do the same. Check the fabric and do it again if it is not better. With the lycra in it, this might not work.

Rhegan
Rhegan
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Date: 7/23/12 4:56 PM

I washed it on warm cold and I dried it on the coolest setting, I always dry on the coolest setting I did Iron on almost high as I couldn't get the wrinkles out at any lower setting.

so do you mean I should stretch it on the bias'?

Marie367
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In reply to Rhegan <<


Date: 7/23/12 6:03 PM

It doesn't sound like you should have messed up the lycra. It is a woven isn't it? I am not good at explaining it what to do but yes you and a partner would grab opposite corners and stretch lengthwise. You are stretching on the bias but it can even out the weave (or waft?).
You usually have to do it to both corners.

cinca
cinca
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In reply to Rhegan <<
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Date: 7/23/12 6:21 PM

If you line it with a non-stretch lining, you will negate some of the benefit of the twill being stretchy.

If you are concerned about getting the layout accurately on the length of the grain, and the width is inconsistent, then you can just eye-ball it.
Be sure to look at the "big picture" as you estimate where the straight of the grain is. It should come out close enough that you won't need to worry.

Fabrics can sometimes take on a life of their own. I don't think you did anything wrong.

sings2high
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Date: 7/23/12 6:34 PM

Actually, the first thing I would try would be to throw it back into the washer and dryer. Once it is NOT-QUITE-DRY, take it out of the dryer and use your iron (on medium) to PRESS, not IRON it dry the rest of the way. It is a distinctly different technique. To do this, you press the iron straight down, lift straight up, move the iron a little, and repeat to the end of the fabric. Do not slide the iron on the fabric, it can easily stretch the fabric if you do that. Yes, it takes a lot longer, but if you have a fabric prone to stretching, this will preserve the dimensions as best as anything can. There are plenty of fabrics for which I don't bother with pressing, but for stretchy fabrics (and quilting fabrics), it will prevent a lot of trouble later.

------
Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

UFOs completed in 2014: 1 - woohoo! finished my oldest UFO - an apron cut out in the mid-80s with a pattern from the mid-40s! and the bias binding promptly disintegrated in the wash! Ok, it was from my Great-Grandmother's stash, which means it was bought anytime from the 1910's to 1970's.
Projects started recently completed in 2014: 4
New Projects started in 2014: 5
Stash:
sewn in 2014: 5
bought in 2014: 17.25

I know...I'm procrastinating.

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/23/12 9:37 PM

There is stretch woven lining, I used it in my stretch corduroy jacket.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Rhegan
Rhegan
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Date: 7/25/12 10:00 AM

Thanks everyone, I guess I'll rewash it and the Press instead of Iron arduous but I dont want it hanging funny
thx

stirwatersblue
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Date: 7/25/12 12:44 PM

I was going to suggest the same thing as Sings2. My go-to solution for fabrics that behave badly out of the wash is to re-wash them and pull them out of the dryer while still dampish.

But before I go at them with the iron, I will block them first. This is a needlework term that means to straighten the grain of needlework fabric that can be pulled out of true as you stitch. Basically it's the same technique described above to straighten the grain--but I'd do it in sections, then pin them to my ironing board, THEN hit them with some heat & steam... then let it cool before moving on. Yes, it's an enormously tedious process, but it works.

HOWEVER, I would ask myself if the fabric is ALSO going to misbehave this badly when it's sewn up... and a twisty, off-gran pair of pants is MUCH more annoying than wiggly fabric. Alas.

------
~Gem in the prairie

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