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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Sleeveless arm hole problems w Renfrew ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Sleeveless arm hole problems w Renfrew
I hate loving knits
Leu
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Leu  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/24/12 0:35 AM

I am trying to do the same thing this blogger did with the Sewaholic renfrew because it fit me well as a as a t shirt.
Andrea B says she followed the same directions as the neck binding (not bias cut) but shorted which is what I did and it turned out looking like this. Yuck.
I decided to try Steam A Seam (first time!) and it made a big difference, except now I have this weird shelf under my arm.
What now?
I am dying to be able to crank out knit tops, wear them to death at the park with my boys, then make more!
Thanks,
Leu sews in NYC

marec
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Date: 7/24/12 1:39 AM

I'd take it in under the arm along the side seam and see if the "shelf" (good term!) goes away. I think the entire armhole is too big and you might want to raise it at the underarm and decrease the length at the shoulder.

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

bettis hat

bettis hat
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Date: 7/24/12 7:52 AM

For your next version you could try cutting the shoulder and armhole area in a smaller size and leave the side seams in the size you are currently using. This may help it sit in closer.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Leu <<


Date: 7/24/12 8:11 AM

I understand you used the same t-shirt pattern with sleeves as you did for the sleeveless one? When working with a sleeveless pattern from a sleeved one, you need to raise the armhole 1" at the underarm.

It also appears that your binding is too large. When binding an armhole, I remove about 1-2" from the binding, if working with a knit. This allows it to stretch slightly and curve snugly around the armhole.

Next thing, it looks like your knit might be unstable; meaning it doesn't bounce back too well when stretched. Staystitching around the armhole with a regular size stitch, just inside the seamline will keep the knit from becoming more unstable when sewing.

To fix what you already have (I know this picture all too well with my own projects!), just take in your underarm seam about 1/2", including the binding.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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wendyrb
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<
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Date: 7/24/12 8:38 AM

I agree with Miss Fairchild's points except I've had trouble with stay stitching knits. If you go that route, I'd try the technique sometimes called Stay Stitch Plus. You put your pointer finger behind the presser foot and put some pressure on it as you sew. Let the cloth pile up between your finger and the presser foot. The more pressure applied the more it will ease in. You may get little ridges from the easing, but that shouldn't be too noticeable if you cover with the binding.

Also there is a Hot Patterns YouTube video on converting the Cabana T into a
dress. Part way into the 5-minute video, Trudy shows converting the sleeve to sleeveless. She advises raise armhole 1 - 1 1/2 inches and again similar to Miss Fairchild, curve in removing 1/2 inch at the top of the side seam from the bra band area up to the armhole. Sorry I don't yet know how to post a link from my iPad, or if it can be done.

Last thought, a more stable knit with Lycra with some bounce back will help top. Let us know how it goes and good luck.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

petro
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Date: 7/24/12 9:06 AM

Can I rabbit on again about my favourite way of stopping armholes and necklines from stretching? Buy some very narrow masking tape (is this called painter's tape in the USA?, anyway, the stuff you stick to the pane to stop your paint migrating from the window frame and drying in a blobby smear on the glass). If you can't buy it narrow - like we can't here - slice some wider stuff up on your self healing mat. When you cut out, stick it in the seam allowances in stretchy areas, before you lift the fabric. Don't rip the tape off until you have the binding or facing attached in the first pass, just keep it clear of crossing seams. Second picture down
here Sorry about the grotty carpet, no time to vacuum that day - well, not if I was going to cut out.

wendyrb
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In reply to petro <<


Date: 7/25/12 1:41 AM

Oh, what a good idea, thanks! Dashing out the door, but will look at your link more closely later. It reminded me of a similar tip. I use the Emma Seabrooke knit tape. It's adhesive, very delicate, light weight and doesn't change the hand of the fabric. A great stabilizer with knits in tricky, stretchy places. Use it all the time and she has ones for women's too.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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In reply to petro <<


Date: 7/25/12 8:13 AM

Quote: petro
Buy some very narrow masking tape ... stick it in the seam allowances in stretchy areas, before you lift the fabric.

Oh, what a brilliant idea!

One important point, though: Absolutely never, ever IRON over the masking tape! Well, unless you want it to stay there forever. (Ruined the "wearable" muslin of my first knit top this way. I'd used masking tape to mark the right sides of the fabric, and got too close to the tape when pressing the neck casing. Ugh.)

***
This is a really great thread, btw--lots of great tips!

------
~Gem in the prairie

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