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Forum > Plus Size Sewing > How should I tweak the pattern before cutting out the muslin? ( Moderated by JEF)

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How should I tweak the pattern before cutting out the muslin?
When I already know the finished garment measurement is about 3" too small.
schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 12/5/06
Posts: 973
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Date: 7/24/12 7:05 PM

I bought the Kwik Sew version instead of the Vogue version. The size XL finished garment measurements in the KS pattern are about 3 to 4 inches too small. The Vogue pattern comes in the size 16 - 22 range. Whatever pattern I use, I will have to do an FBA in addition to widening the circumference in the waist.
Since I already have the KS pattern, how can I tweak the tissue BEFORE cutting out the muslin for fitting? I'm only 5'3" and am a definite H-shape.

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
Intermediate
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
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In reply to schmammy <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/24/12 7:55 PM

Love the pattern!

Here are things that have helped me:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4424/quick-reference-for-cut-and-spread-pattern-grading

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all

http://pattythesnugbug.com/2011/grading-up-my-crescent-skirt/

http://quirkyprettycute.blogspot.com/2010/09/how-i-upgrade-pattern-easy-way.html

http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/enlarge-a-basic-burdastyle-pattern/technique_steps/1

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
Advanced
Manitoba Canada
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 4115
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 7/24/12 10:07 PM

Is that 3 to 4 inches too small after you add ease to your measurements or before?

Are the 3 to 4 inches required everywhere or just certain areas (I usually don't have to add as much --or any -- to the waist but larger amounts to the hips and then have to do an FBA).

You have 7 seams to work with (14 seam allowances) so if you only have to add 3 or 4 inches evenly to the circumference you are not having to add too much to each seam allowance.

First I would figure out how much you need to add where -- bust, waist and hips. I always to half measurements (i.e. back and front hips, back and front waist and back and front bust level). I then add the inches to the seam allowances where they are needed. I seldom have to add to the back pieces but do have to add at the sides at the hip level and at the front in the waist and bust area.

I trace my patterns at the closest size to my measurements and then I do alterations on the pattern before I cut out my muslin. I find I get a closer fit this way and have fewer alterations to do on the muslin.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it (I'm self-taught), but I do my FBA first and then do my circumference at the waist and hips. Lately the FBA has given me almost all the extra circumference I need at the waist.

HTH


------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
77.5 yards sewn (as of 11/07/14)
135.5 yards purchased (as of 11/07/14)

brissie71
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brissie71
Intermediate
Member since 11/6/07
Posts: 800
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
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Date: 7/25/12 0:10 AM

I know I'm not the OP, but thanks for those links. There were some in there that I hadn't seen before. I'm sure they'll prove to be very helpful before long!

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 12/5/06
Posts: 973
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/25/12 9:44 AM

Courtney, thank you so much for the links. Mostly, the info confirms what I suspected, but the photos and details are awesome! Vogues are on sale at Hancock's this weekend...I might go pick one up. :)

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

landstromd
landstromd  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Illinois USA
Member since 2/18/12
Posts: 83
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Date: 8/5/12 6:00 PM

Holy Cow Courtney! These links are fabulous, thanks so very much.
darlene

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