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Forum > Plus Size Sewing > How should I tweak the pattern before cutting out the muslin? ( Moderated by arianamaniacs)

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How should I tweak the pattern before cutting out the muslin?
When I already know the finished garment measurement is about 3" too small.
schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
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Date: 7/24/12 7:05 PM

I bought the Kwik Sew version instead of the Vogue version. The size XL finished garment measurements in the KS pattern are about 3 to 4 inches too small. The Vogue pattern comes in the size 16 - 22 range. Whatever pattern I use, I will have to do an FBA in addition to widening the circumference in the waist.
Since I already have the KS pattern, how can I tweak the tissue BEFORE cutting out the muslin for fitting? I'm only 5'3" and am a definite H-shape.

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
West Virginia USA
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In reply to schmammy
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Date: 7/24/12 7:55 PM

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
Manitoba Canada
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In reply to schmammy

Date: 7/24/12 10:07 PM

Is that 3 to 4 inches too small after you add ease to your measurements or before?

Are the 3 to 4 inches required everywhere or just certain areas (I usually don't have to add as much --or any -- to the waist but larger amounts to the hips and then have to do an FBA).

You have 7 seams to work with (14 seam allowances) so if you only have to add 3 or 4 inches evenly to the circumference you are not having to add too much to each seam allowance.

First I would figure out how much you need to add where -- bust, waist and hips. I always to half measurements (i.e. back and front hips, back and front waist and back and front bust level). I then add the inches to the seam allowances where they are needed. I seldom have to add to the back pieces but do have to add at the sides at the hip level and at the front in the waist and bust area.

I trace my patterns at the closest size to my measurements and then I do alterations on the pattern before I cut out my muslin. I find I get a closer fit this way and have fewer alterations to do on the muslin.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it (I'm self-taught), but I do my FBA first and then do my circumference at the waist and hips. Lately the FBA has given me almost all the extra circumference I need at the waist.

HTH


------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +38.5 yds (2014)
2015 Stash Tally: 106.5 yds out/122.875 yds in (net +16.375 yds)

2016 Stash Busting:
20.875 yds sewn (as of 04/30/16)
9.75 yds purchased (as of 04/30/16)

brissie71
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brissie71
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 7/25/12 0:10 AM

I know I'm not the OP, but thanks for those links. There were some in there that I hadn't seen before. I'm sure they'll prove to be very helpful before long!

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 7/25/12 9:44 AM

Courtney, thank you so much for the links. Mostly, the info confirms what I suspected, but the photos and details are awesome! Vogues are on sale at Hancock's this weekend...I might go pick one up. :)

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

landstromd
landstromd  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/5/12 6:00 PM

Holy Cow Courtney! These links are fabulous, thanks so very much.
darlene
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