Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Help fitting Cowl Tops, Please ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Help fitting Cowl Tops, Please
don't know what changes to make
idahodogs
star
idahodogs
Advanced Beginner
ID USA
Member since 4/22/08
Posts: 432
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/25/12 0:26 AM

I just made muslins of two cowl-neck tops, New Look 6108 (cowl tank), and New Look 6981 (cowl tee). I cut both tops in a size 8, although they are not the same size, as the tee has 1/2 inch of ease and the tank has 3 1/2. I've never worn anything with this style neckline, so I'm not really sure how it's supposed to fit.

Both tops gap at the back neckline, but I'm not sure whether that is because a) I didn't stabilize the hems and maybe they got stretched out, or b) I have narrow shoulders and the neck would lie flat if the sleeves lay further apart. There are no obvious wrinkles between my shoulders, but given that these are knits (which I am not familiar with), maybe there wouldn't be?

Also, I find that both tops have horizontal wrinkles between my boobs. Maybe that is a given with a loose neck like a cowl? Again, I am not familiar enough with knits or this style to know, but it looks weird to me. I wear a DD bra, so I'm used to bust issues, but I don't know what these wrinkles mean.

Sorry I don't have any pictures, I hope my description is clear enough that someone can help me figure this out!

marec
starstarstarstar
marec  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 5/11/08
Posts: 3997
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/25/12 4:27 PM

Those are really cute patterns! My answer depends on the type of knit you used. You know, some are super stretchy and others not so much. For myself, I have narrow shoulders and always do that adjustment. So, I'd start there. Then, you can adjust for your bust. The horizontal wrinkles indicate not enough room. HTH! Post some pictures if you can because I'm sure others would love to chime in.
-- Edited on 7/25/12 4:28 PM --

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

sarah in nyc

sarah in nyc
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 1/8/05
Posts: 1709
Login to reply to this post

In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 7/25/12 6:13 PM

You can quick and dirty the back neck fit with a bit of elastic...and get the job done in five minutes. There are other solutions as well...but this will get the back neck snug for you.

------
sarah in nyc
www.sewnewyork.blogspot.com

idahodogs
star
idahodogs
Advanced Beginner
ID USA
Member since 4/22/08
Posts: 432
Login to reply to this post

Date: 7/25/12 11:24 PM

The fabric I used is cotton jersey, pretty stretchy and not great recovery. Not really quality stuff, that's why I used it for the muslins. The 'real' fabric is also a stretchy cotton jersey, but it's a bit nicer.

I didn't stabilize or reinforce the necklines, although I did cut the binding a little shorter than the neckline and stretched it while I sewed it on (a la the Threads video). I'm not a fan of clear elastic, but I think I'll use some Steam a Seam next time.

ETA: I'm now pretty sure that I have both a stretching problem and a fitting problem... when I pinch out a wedge at the top-inside of the shoulder, the fit improves. I don't know what that means about me, tho. My ideas are 1) above-bust petite adjustment, 2) narrow shoulders, 3) FBA. Maybe all of the above

Marec, do you do a narrow shoulder adjustment on every pattern right away, or do you test them as-is first?
-- Edited on 7/26/12 1:25 AM --
-- Edited on 7/26/12 11:01 AM --

marec
starstarstarstar
marec  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 5/11/08
Posts: 3997
Login to reply to this post

In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 7/26/12 3:29 PM

Quote:
Marec, do you do a narrow shoulder adjustment on every pattern right away, or do you test them as-is first?


I tissue fit in a rough way every time. I'll pin the tissue to my cami using the center line and the waist marking as guides. Then I check the bust point, the distance between armhole and shoulder, and the length of the shoulder. I almost always have to do a petite adj between the armhole and shoulder to decrease distance, and narrow the shoulder itself. This year I have moved the bust point down a bit.

This takes me about 10 minutes.

I am a B cup so no FBA for me-that will add to your alterations but should become second nature after a bit.

The cotton jersey you are using is most likely causing part of your woes. I would suggest starting with a more stable knit to practice sewing with knits. I love double knits and ottoman knits. Both are sturdy and forgiving of errors. They work best with designs that are structural or plain.

Good luck and hang in there. Use a different type of knit and try the alterations I listed.

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

Leu
star
Leu  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NY USA
Member since 1/21/10
Posts: 334
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/13/12 2:35 PM

I am wondering if you ever worked this top out to fit nicely? I have your measurements (DD) and am working on McCalls 6078 and having the same bust issue, a wide sloping wrinkle from one boob to the other. I have tried straight stitching along the cowl where a v neck would fit and pulling this thread into the shoulder area, but that only created a gathered look where there should be drape and didn't fix the whole hanging bridge between the boobs problem
Pic.

Leu

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8126
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Leu <<


Date: 9/13/12 3:37 PM

Looks as though you need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) to add just enough fabric to let the top fall free from your bosom, rather than hanging up there. There are various techniques.

Here is a standard one.

Here's another.

Marcy Tilton has a series of youtube videos demonstrating
how to fit a tee.

Finally, if you're working with a knit and all you need is just a little bit more fullness and length for the bust, you can locate your bust point, and draw a true horizontal line through it all the way across the front pattern piece. Then you cut along that line and spread the pieces apart about half an inch, filling in the gap with another piece of paper (this will of course make your front side seam 1/2" longer than the back side seam). You make a little 1/4" outward curve in the side seam right at bosom level, and when you sew the side seam, you slightly gather this extra fullness, which will make the the front side seam once again the same length as the back side seam.

Just as a note about sizing, Connie Crawford has an article on fitting T-shirts in the November 2010 issue of Threads magazine where she states that a good t-shirt pattern should be 1/2" bigger across the front than the back. It makes sense, because we don't have boobs in back.
-- Edited on 9/13/12 4:13 PM --

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Help fitting Cowl Tops, Please

Merchants on PR
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Online Sewing Classes
Create a Jacket Muslin
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Create a Jacket Muslin

Vogue Patterns 1878
photo
Review by ggf2005 on 2/25/14
Read Review

You Sew Girl Baguette Pattern
You Sew Girl Baguette Pattern

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

BRIDAL COUTURE, a CD book by Susan Khalje
BRIDAL COUTURE, a CD book by Susan Khalje

Details
Price: $39.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Sporty Girl Skort Digital Pattern ( Size 12 mo -12 years )
Peek-A Boo Sporty Girl Skort Digital Pattern ( Size 12 mo -12 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Salme Kimono Top Digital Pattern
Salme Kimono Top Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $7.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCall's 5720
photo
Review by lizziwhizz on 11/12/08
Read Review

McCalls 6557 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
McCalls 6557 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue 1357 Pattern ( Size 4-6-8-10-12 )
Vogue 1357 Pattern ( Size 4-6-8-10-12 )

Details
Price: $32.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN