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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Sleeve Cap Ease demystified?! ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Sleeve Cap Ease demystified?!
Maybe. Here's one solution...
jadamo00
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jadamo00
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Date: 7/25/12 10:28 AM

In THIS METHOD , you measure the cutting line (not the stitching line) of both the armhole and the sleeve cap. It should be no more than 1-2" difference.

Howevah, in THIS SIMILAR METHOD the author states that, "1.5 inches of ease is simply too much. Some fabrics require 0.25 to 0.5 inches of ease, but not much more."

Here's some valuable wisdom from PR members:

Sewsally
For wool jackets maybe 1.5 inches (ease) at the most.
Blouses 1 inch or less.
Knits almost zero.
But of course there should be enough room to go around your bicep muscle with some ease.

Lena Merrin
I am busy writing a book on sleeve ease, so I am researching the subject very closely. Sleeve ease depends on the properties of the fabric.
On average, in made to measure, the sleeve cap ease is 10-12% of the length of the armscye (average sleeve) .
In factory method, it would be about 6-8%. Jacket sleeve cap ease is about 7% (factory made).

=====

If you have too much fabric in the sleeve cap, you can keep cutting down the sleeve cap until it works! If you feel insecure about just carving down the sleeve cap, THIS METHOD will help you do it.

And, there are two additional methods for reducing ease in THIS LINK .

I'm going try this with my very next pattern, cutting down to 1" ease to start. IF THIS WORKS, we'd be able to alter the sleeve pattern before we even cut the cloth!

Who's with me on this?!

j.

I also want to add THIS LINK to LynnRowe's excellent discussion on easing a jacket sleeve with a piece of lofty bias that ALSO acts as a sleeve head! There's a link on the thread to Gertie's video of the technique.






-- Edited on 8/21/12 3:17 PM --



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Date: 7/25/12 11:06 AM

I do it the way Casey does and have for years.

I learned this when I took some high end RTW apart I got that I hated the top, but loved the sleeves.

I ct them out of the scraps that we all complain about that matches the content/weight and baste in to check since some garments require different ease, and it can be as little as 1/4" to a little over 2" depending on the garment.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 7/25/12 11:35 AM

I don't understand what she means when she says "bring the RIGHT line to meet the center pin/s." What "right line" does she mean? She's only marked the center and the two notches, and obviously she doesn't mean bring the NOTCH up to the center... does she? Because that's not what's pictured. I feel like there's a step left out somewhere...

(Edited to link back to the right tutorial--the one about carving down the sleeve cap.)




-- Edited on 7/25/12 11:36 AM --

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~Gem in the prairie

jadamo00
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 7/25/12 12:37 PM

Scroll down to her replies. Someone else asks the exact same question.

j.

quathy
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Date: 7/25/12 7:00 PM

I'm struggling with this very issue right now. Great timing - thank you for posting! I tried simply shaving down the cap, but then the sleeve was too tight. I'll try the other methods and see what I get.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 7/25/12 7:24 PM

Stirwatersblue, she left out a photo and a step. You draw a vertical line away from the shoulder line, half the distance of the amount you want to remove. Also, draw a line at the shoulder line. Take the first line, the one that is half the distance and make it meet at the shoulder line. It should look like a half-pleat or a tuck.
-- Edited on 7/25/12 7:29 PM --

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Calendria
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Date: 7/26/12 4:48 PM

thanx all for the links. this really helps.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 7/26/12 6:28 PM

Jada and Miss Fairchild, thanks!! This is very timely for me, as well, because DH has asked me for a new shirt for the Renaissance fair that's a lot less poofy in the sleeves.

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~Gem in the prairie

pinkcatflower
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Date: 7/27/12 4:18 AM

I tried one of the methods you linked- this one, a while back. I thought it was a slightly confusing tutorial but I'm sure I did what I was supposed to. However I found it reduced the ease by only a tiny amount. ...Who knows, maybe I did it wrong. But I was very careful to follow the instructions correctly..

I'm going to try something different next. I think Casey's way of cutting off the top of the cap might be good.

How about this tutorial? This is for ADDING ease, but if you did it in reverse, could you use to to reduce the sleeve cap?
Tutorial here

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jadamo00
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In reply to pinkcatflower <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/27/12 6:27 AM

Pink! Super link! -- a nice organized, scientific and even way to cut down the sleeve cap!

Cutting the sleeve cap: I just tried it on a raincoat: the Max Mara raincoat fabric could not be eased AT ALL. I cut down the sleeve cap and it seems just fine, although I can't give the garment a really good test run until the weather cools off here in NY.

Together, we may be kicking this thing in the pants. And we're collecting a nice bunch of links in one place.

My remaining question: aren't the pattern companies testing these sleeves out? Somewhere, is SOMEONE able to ease 2" of cap into a sleeve without weeping?

j.








-- Edited on 7/27/12 10:17 AM --

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