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Forum > Fitting Woes > Skirt attached to corset is bubbling in the back ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Skirt attached to corset is bubbling in the back
HanPanda
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HanPanda
Intermediate
Member since 4/27/08
Posts: 1129
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Date: 7/25/12 9:20 PM

Made my first corset! ; w; I am LE super proud. It's a foundation piece for a costume that will go overtop, but since the whole thing is strapless, I needed to make sure I'd be able to keep everything in place. They just don't make strapless bras in my size ; 3;

Corset pre-skirt

However, I am having trouble. I've never made a corset before, so I'm unsure how to fix this. I am connecting a skirt to the corset foundation so the whole thing serves as a lining for the fashion fabric. The skirt gets weird and bubbly in the back where the boning ends. Would making multiple panels fix this? I'm going to need to add more volume and WAY more length to the final piece; this is just a mock up. But I wanted to be sure before attacking my fashion fabric.

Photo of back/bubbling

Thoughts?

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2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!! I'm subtracting fabric given away from my yardage in. Yeah!
In: 94.5 yards
Sewn: 73 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

Zacky
Zacky
Intermediate
Louisiana USA
Member since 1/7/10
Posts: 169
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Date: 7/25/12 9:43 PM

Looks like you got a good fit on the corset portion. If the skirt part is sewed to the bottom of the top i'd say make either skirt waistline shorter, or lower. Just pinch out the "bubble" portion on your mock up and sew it. Measure the changes and tranfer it to your pattern piece.

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Zacky

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
Intermediate
Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3465
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Date: 7/25/12 9:52 PM

Well done! It looks great! Did you use a pattern?

To me, that looks like you need a swayback adjustment--meaning, your back is shorter than the dress, so it's wrinkling/bubbling up there. I had that problem on this bodice. In this case, I could get away with just lopping an inch or so off the bottom of the bodice; in your case (because of the zipper and also b/c I'm not getting a good enough view to see if there's a waist seam?) you might want to do the adjustment properly. I think it involves a particular sort of dart, as well as manipulating the center back seam (where the zip is). Lots here on the boards about it.

All of that said, adding a skirt to a corset presented some of THE MOST frustrating construction/fit challenges I've had so far! My issue was bubbling along the V in front. What finally fixed it was taking it apart, stabilizing the skirt (which had the V cut out of it already), and then CAREFULLY pinning, basting, and sewing it by hand, being extremely fiddly and exact with easing and smoothing and making room for pleats. I also had the added challenge of matching the damask motif along the waist seam (which I did finally manage to do!) so you should have an easier go of it.

Good luck! I'd love to hear the other suggestions!

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~Gem in the prairie

HanPanda
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HanPanda
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Member since 4/27/08
Posts: 1129
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Date: 7/25/12 10:17 PM

Thanks guys! ^^ I did use a Simplicity pattern. I am pretty excited; I thought I would have to do more alteration, but I only had to take some out of the back panel and a little from the front side panel.

Stirwaters, that is some LOVELY cartridge pleating, goodness!

There is no waist seam on the corset, no. Typically I would go for a lace up with a corset, but since it is the foundation of a dress and I don't want the laces on the dress, I figured it would be easier to just put a zip up the back. I can try taking out some of the bottom of the corset and see if that would work. Since you mentioned it, I wonder if that is part of the issue; the deep "valley" of the bubbling is being pushed there by the boning in the back. The other thought I had was to make the back of the skirt a little fuller to assist in getting it over my derriere.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I think the front V had a smidge of bubbling too. Not NEARLY as much as the back, but a little bit. I used the corset as the cutting line guide for the skirt. Oh, and this is probably relevant, but the skirt is interfaced.

I will try taking some out of the back of the corset, then the skirt. I'll also try hand basting; I'm always so lazy with that, but I really want this to work! Other suggestions are still totally welcome.

Thank you!

------
2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!! I'm subtracting fabric given away from my yardage in. Yeah!
In: 94.5 yards
Sewn: 73 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

AtiyaAfi
AtiyaAfi
New York USA
Member since 5/23/10
Posts: 199
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Date: 7/25/12 10:22 PM

This YouTube video by Peggy Sagers is a good look at fit - I think you'll solve your problem by viewing it. I found it a good reminder.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4Yq6xwOhPs

HanPanda
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HanPanda
Intermediate
Member since 4/27/08
Posts: 1129
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Date: 7/29/12 10:40 AM

AtiyaAfi, that video was SO helpful. Thank you!! Very simple explanation of things I never knew about fit. Now I know. Hurray!

I added a ton of extra fabric into the side seams, which ENTIRELY got rid of the wrinkles in the back.

wrinkle free back

Lol my friend tush-photo bombed my picture xD we do most of our sewing together those daysit's so fun to have a sewing buddy.

I do have a tiny bit of wrinkling in the front. Though, I think it is a length issue: if I take the skirt seam allowance in when I attach it to the corset, I don't think I'll have the problem.

bubbles in the front

And I will definitely pin and hand baste the whole thing on before running it through the machine. I think that is the best way to make sure everything lines up perfectly. :D
-- Edited on 7/29/12 10:41 AM --

------
2014 resolution: keep track of sewn yardage!! I'm subtracting fabric given away from my yardage in. Yeah!
In: 94.5 yards
Sewn: 73 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

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