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Looking for a tutorial
altering the rise on pant patterns
Mparedon
Mparedon
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USA
Member since 5/12/06
Posts: 36
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Date: 7/26/12 2:35 PM

I was looking for a tutorial on how to alter the rise of pant patterns. Most patterns that I have either have a high rise (close to my ribcage) or a low crotch, sagging down a couple of inches.
I would love a step-by-step tutorial (video or written) on how to alter regular pant patterns to fit better with a lower rise (I like atleast two inches below my natural waist, especially since I have a high waist). I do have a book about this but I would love to see some step by step pictures, especially if the tutorial includes using a good fit pair of pants and using it to change crotch and rise curves.

Warning TMI: after having a child most pants that I try on give me embarrassing camel toe, EVEN IF I go up a size I just end up with a saggy camel toe. It's really weird, so I'd love to sew my own pants but not have the 'mom-jean' look.

Thanks!

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Ohio USA
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In reply to Mparedon <<
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Date: 7/26/12 4:10 PM

You can rent a Peggy Sager DVD for fitting pants here.

Although, I think I would prefer a book. Pants Fitting.


-- Edited on 7/26/12 4:13 PM --

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Mparedon <<
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Date: 7/26/12 4:35 PM

It sounds like you have two issues here. One, a style issue which is really an easy fix and two, you've got a fit issue. I'd get the pants fitting book from Palmer Pletsch and look at Peggy Sagers free web cast on pants fitting and fit a plain pair of pants. Then, once they fit properly you measure down where you want them to sit and mark that, then add a seam allowance and cut off the top of your pants. That's it.

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Mparedon
Mparedon
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USA
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Posts: 36
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 7/26/12 4:52 PM

Quote: Nancy K
It sounds like you have two issues here. One, a style issue which is really an easy fix and two, you've got a fit issue. I'd get the pants fitting book from Palmer Pletsch and look at Peggy Sagers free web cast on pants fitting and fit a plain pair of pants. Then, once they fit properly you measure down where you want them to sit and mark that, then add a seam allowance and cut off the top of your pants. That's it.

Thank you guys! I'll be sure to look at those resources.

Also, I think it's a great suggestion to deal with fit first and then mark where I'd like the waistband to sit. My concern would be altering the darts, facings, pockets, etc... that might be 'cut off' when marking a lower waist. Is there a rule of thumb when dealing with those parts?
I'm thinking that I would just make slimmer darts and elongate facings to match the new lower (and wider waistline)?
Brine
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Brine  Friend of PR
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Illinois USA
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Date: 7/27/12 5:36 PM

I don't think you'd want to change the darts when you cut off the top part of the pants. If the original high-waisted pants fit, the "new" dart will be the same as the "old" one; the dart angle and point will be exactly the same and only the dart legs will be shorter. If the facing would be too narrow (or was cut off) when you lowered the old waistline, you would want to draft a new one based on the shape of the area below the new waistline.

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Brine

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avatrx  Friend of PR
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In reply to Mparedon <<


Date: 9/20/12 5:26 AM

did you ever get a reply on your topic that worked for you. I have the same issue but I do believe I have finally resolved it. I"m 5'10". the pants I typically buy are too high in the front and pull down in the back. The Peggy Sagers free webcasts are a big help, but there are other methods. I've tried them all. Most recently I bought the surefit design system for pants from someone on sewitsforsale yahoo group. I drew up my first pair using my measurements and they fit. I had to tweak the front rise a bit, and I just tweaked it a tad more. I'll be making those either this week or next, but no camel toe - no front rise to my boobs, etc.

You have to start by measuring yourself. There is a tutorial on the surefit designs website. here is a link:

http://www.surefitdesigns.com/Pant-Videos-Drawing-Designing.html

I can't seem to get the automatic link to work so cut and past this in.

hope this helps. If not, I probably have even more suggestions.

AHill4168
AHill4168
Member since 3/27/12
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Date: 1/15/13 3:17 PM

The Threads Fitting Series has a lot of great tips on fitting pants, including how to fit a droopy crotch curve. You can see all the videos at www.threadsmagazine.com if you sign up to be a Threads Insider, even if you only get the 14-day free trial.

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