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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Drafting a pleated skirt for B5457 dress

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Drafting a pleated skirt for B5457 dress
Slyvchan
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Slyvchan
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 8/7/08
Posts: 155
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Date: 7/27/12 4:05 PM

I'm making my bridesmaids' dresses (three of them, to be exact), and I've finally found the perfect pattern. I'm going to be using Butterick 5457, View D, but only the top. The bottom is going to be more like this dress's skirt, but the pleats are going to be smaller to match the bodice pleats.

My question is how to draft that skirt. Would I be correct in just taking a rectangle of overlay, a rectangle of the underlayer, basting them together, and then pleating them to fit the bodice? I want to make sure that the skirt is full enough that it doesn't look awkward, so maybe it would be a better idea to pleat the two layers together but starting with more of a half-circle for the front?

I'm not sure if this makes any sense, but thanks in advance!

------
And as you sew, so shall you rip.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WV USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
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Date: 7/28/12 0:14 AM

I think I'd take the skirt that comes with the Butterick, and instead of gathering it, pleating it. You'll need to measure the length of the waistband at the bottom and make sure that you have enough fabric, with the pleats, to match the waistband.

I just did a whole bunch of pleats and darts for a MOG dress and my own dress for my brother's wedding. I underlined the fashion fabric (silk charmeuse and silk/cotton sateen twill), and then hand-basted the center of each dart (or, the side of each pleat) through both layers of fabric (the underlining and the fashion fabric). Then I pinned each pleat or dart, pressed it, and hand-basted the waist to check for fit. Then, I basted each pleat or dart, checked it for looks, and then sewed each one. Then sewed the waistline, and then removed all the basting stitches. It was tedious, but pretty!
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/c0.0.403.403/p403x403/534712_10100210474923783_1985914796_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/c0.0.403.403/p403x403/558213_10100208873602843_1733918885_n.jpg

Elcue
Elcue  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 6/13/12
Posts: 193
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Date: 7/28/12 11:03 AM

If I understand your question you want to have the pleats on the skirt to match the pleats on the bodice.

I would use the skirt pattern of the same dress and lay the bodice upside down matching the center front at the waistline. Then transfer the pleats to the skirt, adding width at the center front of the skirt as needed.

I think it would flatten out the front of the skirt unless the pleats flare toward the hemline.

Slyvchan
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Slyvchan
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 8/7/08
Posts: 155
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Date: 7/31/12 1:01 AM

Awesome, thanks! Both ideas sound pretty similar to me, so I'll probably use a combo of the two.

Thanks again!

------
And as you sew, so shall you rip.

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