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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > What length to add to bodice for long torso?

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What length to add to bodice for long torso?
gramma b
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gramma b
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Date: 7/27/12 7:22 PM

How would you measure for adding shoulder-to-waist torso length for an elastic-waist dress? (simple patio sundress)
My senior relative is a tall average, but large low-busted. Do you measure the length over the bust and maybe add more ? to the
front bodice piece than the back bodice?
Some RTW drive her crazy because when she raises her arms, the elastic waist inches up under the arms, both with a waist-length bodice or an empire style.
Those center band-type dresses are hard to modify and I would like to have a go-to pattern to use for her again, as she is more comfortable in these than pants. She gardens and likes them for the coolness.

JTink
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In reply to gramma b <<
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Date: 7/28/12 9:29 AM

If she is larger than a B cup("large, low-busted"), I would suggest doing an FBA. No matter how much you "add to the bottom" of the bodice, it just never fits quite right without doing the FBA as well. I have to do both. Especially on a wrap V-neck type of bodice. Even after doing the FBA, I have to add another inch to the bottom of the bodice.

nancy2001
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In reply to gramma b <<


Date: 8/1/12 1:52 PM

Why don't you and your relative select a dress pattern that doesn't have an elastic waist.

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LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/1/12 5:10 PM

The answer is "as much as you need".I know, that's not helpful. It does sound like she may need an FBA, and maybe to have the bust dart/fullness lowered. But then you may still want more length added too.

I can usually do a pretty good job at eyeballing this with a tissue fit. I usually end up adding an inch in the armhole and an inch in the lower torso to Big 4 patterns and I'm 5'9", just to give you a ballpark to start with.

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gramma b
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In reply to LauraTS <<


Date: 8/1/12 5:44 PM

She's an almost "elderly" 5'8" but energetic, with slender arms and legs, so don't want bigger armhole, just more in the C front than the back. She prefers elastic waists for movement and non-binding over a set waistband plus they can be a little dressier for running out than just a muu-muu, which she wears around the house. (Old school, hardly ever wears pants.)
Thanks all!

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to gramma b <<


Date: 8/1/12 5:50 PM

This is interesting because what I think you are asking about is a back waist measurement, meaning back of neck to back waist. This is always shown on at least the Big 4 pattern envelopes. If you have to add or subtract to this amount, you also have to add or subtract the same amount from the front. If your relative has a hunched shoulder, you will add more at the shoulder blade area, as in a High Round Back adjustment, and not add anything to the front.

If her arms are raised and the elastic hikes up, this tells me the dart is in the wrong place. (Sorry, it's my way of thinking of this picture without seeing it). Darts are used for fullness and if her bustline is too low, chance are the dart is in the wrong place. You might want to try lowering the dart to suit her more.

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goodworks1
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Date: 8/1/12 6:07 PM

She may also need slightly looser elastic; and maybe a more blouse-y bodice (and/or armholes that are not set too low if the sleeves are narrow.*) * I see now that this dress is probably sleeveless.

Is her upper torso narrow? Elastic waistband dresses always ride up to the narrowest spot (ask me how I know) and one thing that helps them drop back into place is a slightly looser elastic.
-- Edited on 8/1/12 6:10 PM --

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