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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > What method do you use? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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What method do you use?
When adding a binding to sleeveless blouse
AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Iowa USA
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Date: 7/28/12 11:51 AM

When adding a binding to a sleeveless blouse do you

1. sew the side seams together then apply the binding?
2. sew the binding on then sew up the side seams?

It is so much easier to apply the binding then sew the side seams, however I always feel as if I am cheating when I do this. Probably because I was taught to sew the side seams then apply the binding. Whenever I do this I end up fighting with the binding to get it to fit the armhole. I either end up with to much binding or not enough. Then there is the problem of getting the binding ends to line up and and lay nice and flat.

Anyone have a trick to getting the binding to lay nice and flat. Do you always have the binding meet at the underarm side seams?
Not sure I explained that very well?

------
Ada

petro
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Date: 7/28/12 2:04 PM

I bind after stitching the side seams. If you do it the other way round you have a seam coming right to the edge. I suppose its true that you rarely see enough of the underarm area in wear for that to matter.
Binding any curve is a bit of a pain, except if using a strip of knit on knitwear, that seems to go fine. To get the measurements right I do this - decide how wide the finished binding will be; cut the seam allowance to that width; measure, tape measure on edge round the edge where I just cut; cut the binding to this length plus turnings to make it into a circle.
Binding methods I use - depends on the fabric and the kind of binding, and how much I feel like fussing.
Easy one. Press binding in half along the length, seam it to a circle.
Pin both raw edges of the binding to the raw edge of the armhole, stitch along the stitching line. Press binding down, top stitch round either with a single or a double needle. Double is best.
Trickier. Sew binding in a circle. Stitch one raw edge of binding to raw edge of armhole. Fold binding round seam allowance and press. Stitch in the ditch from the RS through the garment and the underneath layer of the binding.
Tedious. Sew binding in a circle, stitch one raw edge as in 'trickier'. Fold binding over the raw edge of the garment, and fold the underneath raw edge of the binding under. Stitch in the ditch from the top hoping against hope to catch the folded edge. It helps to tack first and have the WS of the binding slightly wider.
Neat but oh so slow. As 'tedious' but hand hem the underneath edge of the binding on the WS.

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/28/12 3:55 PM

I bind after stitching all the seams. Same with a neckline. It's a little more fiddly, but I don't want the bulky seam allowance at the top of my side seams, if I were to put the binding on, then sew the side seam. It also gives a nicer, smoother finish. It's not much different that sewing the binding on to a quilt. I can see, however, if one is not accustomed to doing this with quilts, that it would be intimidating on a garment.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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West Virginia USA
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Date: 7/28/12 11:57 PM

I layer one end of the binding over the other, with the top layer folded. No worries about the right length, because I cut a little extra, and then fold it right when I reach the other end. Works like a charm.

Tarrbaby
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Date: 7/29/12 8:51 AM

I sew everything I can in the flat(before the seams are sewn) its faster and easier for me. If its something more special, I might bind it after seaming.

------
Dawn T.

Karine
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Karine  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/29/12 10:02 AM

I attach binding after sewing the side seams to avoid an unfinished point under the arm. I always use this technique I learned from Louise Cutting:
1. Carefully walk a soft tape measure around the armhole opening, at the seamline. Do it several times to make sure it's exact.
2. Cut your binding that amount plus a seam allowance. Sew bias ends together using straight edge, not diagonal.
3. Never press the binding in half until the very end.
4. Fold in half, wrong sides together.
5. Pin to wrong side of garment, with pin heads sticking out. Stitch 1/4" seam.
6. Press SA away from the garment, never touching the fold.
Flip over to front side and press again.
7. Fold folded edge of bias over raw edge.
8. Stab pin to ironing board just past row of stitching.
9. Press, laying pins right down, pressing over them. Press fold.
10. Remove pins, press again.
11. Steam-A-Seam right next to foldline and press.
12. Remove paper, place down and press.
13. Edgestitch.

I have never had ripples in binding since I started using this technique.

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to Karine <<
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Date: 7/29/12 11:55 AM

Petro and Karine I will give your methods a go. My problem has always been getting the edges of the binding to meet at the side seams in a clean flat joining. I almost always end up with a ugly glob where the binding joins together.

I have flung caution to the wind and am making sleeveless blouses this summer. Arms that look like bat wings be damned.



------
Ada

Kelly D.
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Date: 7/29/12 12:30 PM

All I'm going to add to this discussion is the thought that nothing is cheating when it comes to your sewing for yourself. If you are happy with the performance of the technique you are using and it makes sewing the project easier and more enjoyable, I'd say stay with it!

strongnow
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Date: 7/29/12 5:15 PM

This is wonderful! I am in the process of cutting out a sleeveless dress which needs binding at the neck and the arms. I am so glad I took a look at the Discussions before searching on this topic.
Thank you all for this info.

rivergum
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 7/29/12 5:51 PM

Quote: Courtney Ostaff
I layer one end of the binding over the other, with the top layer folded. No worries about the right length, because I cut a little extra, and then fold it right when I reach the other end. Works like a charm.

I do the same and it works really well for me too.

------
Taking in is happier than letting out.

Sydney, Australia

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