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First FBA Attempt
please help walk me through it
idahodogs
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idahodogs
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Date: 7/28/12 9:14 PM

I am ready. I am prepared. I am totally confused!

I've read every FBA chapter, tutorial and blog post I can find. It all makes sense in my head - but not on paper. I picked Simplicity 4127 for my first attempt at an FBA. Here is a picture of the Front Bodice piece.

Maybe a bad choice, given the not-quite-vertical dart placement, but I hope I can make it work. My first attempt was a total disaster - if anything I think it make the bodice smaller. I tried to add 1 inch into the existing dart, keeping it in the same place. I'm not sure if I did it wrong (I was using Debbie Cook/FFRP slash and spread), or if I need to split the dart into a vertical and a french dart.

I'm hoping someone can tell me where to make the cuts to do my slash and spread correctly. I'll repost more photos as I go through the steps and hopefully y'all can check my work!
-- Edited on 7/28/12 9:18 PM --

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/29/12 0:58 AM

I can't think of any reason the off vertical dart will mess with a FBA. Using FFRP as my reference I would do this: Line 1 is going to begin about 1" from the bodice top into the armhole. Line 2 will begin as close as possible to the seam line. (With the empire seam some of the bust shaping is in the seam. If you pin in the dart you will see that the seam is not straight and when you finish it will have more curve to cover you from point to under bust. I like it to be pretty close so I watch the bust point to bra band measurement when I do one of these). The 3rd line goes up the center of the dart. Spread to get your inch along this third line. True the center front so the dart legs are the same length. You may discover when you sew it up that you need a deeper seam at the center front to prevent gapping. I would do a muslin because I sometimes need more length above the bust point. You might also decide to split the dart and have two under the bust. Let us know how it goes.

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/29/12 5:55 AM

First, I strongly suggest you trace this piece and work with that so you keep the original if you must start over. That will take some of the stress out

idahodogs
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idahodogs
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 7/29/12 11:35 AM

Don't worry, I already have! I totally messed up the first copy, and now I'm ready to start cutting the second, once I figure out where to do so.

ETA: .Here's my idea of where to draw lines 1 & 3, but I'm not sure about 2. Because I need so much length added, my actual bust point is lower than the original dart point
-- Edited on 7/29/12 12:35 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 7/29/12 4:35 PM

idaho, go ahead and put line 2 from side seam to bust point, as per FFRP. If you don't have enough length to come over your bust after the FBA is done, this site has a great way to lengthen:

Lazystitching.wordpress.com.full-bust-adjustment-gathered-bodice

Sorry about not being able to copy and paste. I can't seem to get it to work
-- Edited on 7/29/12 4:37 PM --

Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 7/29/12 8:19 PM

J-Tink - excellent tutorial!

Very handy as I am working on something similar - empire waist thing. The one thing the tutorial says that puzzels me is that it says whatever length you add to the front, you need to add to the back.

Idahodogs, I don't know if you have this problem.... but what to do when you need to add length to the front of a empire waist as part of the FBA so that the garment ends under the boobs instead of riding the nipple line? If one is short, usually you usually have to shorten the back length - not lengthen it!!

Can anyone point to a tutorial or explain how you lengthen the front with and FBA and shorten the back?? Some sort of long,horizontal diamond shape dart in the pattern, I am guessing??

idahodogs
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idahodogs
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In reply to Canadian Jane <<


Date: 7/29/12 9:35 PM

I have pretty limited experience, but what I have done before is to add length to the bottom of the Front Bodice (instead of an FBA), and then ease it when sewing it to the unaltered Back Bodice. To shorten above the waistline, I shortened the straps, and then shortened the skirt by taking a tuck near my hips.

Now - at the time I did that my bust was a bit smaller. These days the FBA is unavoidable, hence the current project. I guess I figured that any additional length in the front would be darted/eased out at the sides (creating the 'cup' shape)?? You are ahead of me in this line of thinking!

I cut my FBA lines into my pattern today, but didn't get any further. More updates as events warrant

Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 7/29/12 10:00 PM

Idahodogs - yes, me too, this is the first time I have ever done an FBA too. I am 5'2 with GG cups. If I did not have the girls I would be shortening everything.

My top has two darts under the bust and with the FBA I have added a huge dart on the side in part due to the about 2 extra inches in length. My traced pattern piece has "paper layer buildup" from all my adjustments!! I got that far and then read JTinks post and the tutorial she linked. Mine doesn't have straps and I need the extra length at the front.

If only I did not need the back peice!! Maybe I could just use the same toupee tape that JLo used to hold on that quasi-dress she wore to the Oscars (I think) one year to hold on the shoulders and the sides. Problem solved.

Hang in there. There has to be a way through this that does not require a PH'd in nuclear physics and/or a 3D industrial quality drafting machine. Thank God for the ever so helpful people on this board!



-- Edited on 7/29/12 10:04 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 7/30/12 7:51 AM

Hummm, I see what y'all mean about the extra back length. I'm also 5'2 and have to make waist line petite adjustments. Sometimes between "shoulder and bust" too. Been a while since I've done this adjustment, but I only had to add an extra 5/8 or so to the bottom of the bodice, after doing the FBA(I'm 34DD). I just tapered back to the original side seam, so it would match the back.
Maybe someone will come along and have a better solution

tinflutterby
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Date: 7/30/12 11:20 AM

All empire waist patterns have more length from the bust point down than at the center front or side. Those of us with big girls end up with a more pronounced curve along that seam. I have also found that I need to change the slope of the neckline to get full coverage. I can think of times when it might be prudent to move the empire seam down a little in the back as well. Not lengthening it but changing the location to give more easing room on the side.

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