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momtoesther
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momtoesther
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Date: 8/2/12 0:54 AM

I am working on burda 11-2011-123 dress (with the neckline raised!) and would love some help fabric shopping. I'm new to 'fancy' sewing and 99% of my stash is cotton lycra and denim :)
My budget is about $20/metre. I'm not planning on underlining, just lining. Will be shipping to CanadaLining suggestions would be great too.

MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 8/2/12 10:27 AM

That is a lovely looking dress. I say a wool or silk dupioni. You can wash the silk to make it softer.

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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In reply to momtoesther <<
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Date: 8/2/12 11:04 AM

An inexpensive option might be a polyester crepe back satin. You can use the satin side or the crepe side as the face. It's a common dressy fabric in the regular fabric stores so you might find it locally. Vogue Fabrics would be a good mail order source. They ship to Canada.

Sawyer Brook has excellent quality fabric. The people there know their fabric and are so very helpful in choosing the right fabric. They will send out swatches. Free in the US, not sure about Canada. A wool crepe would be classy and dressy.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

momtoesther
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momtoesther
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Date: 8/2/12 11:39 AM

Do any of those fabrics REQUIRE underlining? A quick search of silk dupioni shows that it is often underlined with silk organza. I'm in in the middle of watching Susan Kalje's couture dress class, so I think I could handle the underlining, but would prefer to skip that if I can.

Would cotton sateen be an option? I'm not so big on the 'shiny' fabrics and would prefer a matte look. Also, holding the creases of the pleats is important too. I've worked with crepe back satin once before (years ago!) and seem to remember it being hard to crease.

Sorry for all the questions. I'm such a newbie when it comes to formal wear. Give me a pair of jeans and a t-shirt to sew anytime :)

LynnRowe
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LynnRowe  Friend of PR
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In reply to momtoesther <<


Date: 8/2/12 11:49 AM



EOS dress-weights

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I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to momtoesther <<


Date: 8/2/12 6:15 PM

I second the wool crepe. I don't think that cotton sateen is a great choice. Rayon crepe is a lovely fabric and you can find it here casual elegance fabric for $15. The nicest choice for lining is silk crepe de chine especially if you choose wool crepe. Bemberg rayon is a good, less pricey choice. Silk dupionni is better underlined to reduce wrinkling.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 8/2/12 6:53 PM

Underlining is not required. However, in order to have an invisible hem, you'd need the underlining to stitch the the hem to it and not the fabric.

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4999/understanding-underlining/

Your underlining can (and usually is) made of a cheaper, often ugly, fabric that no one will ever see.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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In reply to momtoesther <<


Date: 8/2/12 7:14 PM

You can buy a polyester charcoal charmeuse at Fabric.com for $5/yd with $16 shipping. A red poly crepe de chine is also $5/yd for lining. A poly organzafor underlining may be had for $6/yd. So, in polyester, you'd be able to make it for $16/yd. So the dress would be about $40.

Now, if I'm a natural fabrics snob, so if I was making that dress, I'd use this as the fashion fabric, underline it with this ($9.74/yd after sale) and line it with this ($12.99 after sale). Which would give you about $40/yd plus shipping (23.25 + some comparable amt at EOS...) Which would be about $100 for the dress.

But, making it in a natural fabric would make it infinitely more wearable for me, since I'd not be sweating like a pig in it.

crazygrad
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In reply to LynnRowe <<


Date: 8/2/12 7:15 PM

You are evil to post that fabric. I adore it.

momtoesther
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momtoesther
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Date: 8/2/12 7:35 PM

Thanks for all the options! I love that red/grey print but I think I will stick with black this go round. That Theory cotton sateen from EOS was what I was looking atI think I'll stay away from the dupioni but the wool crepe sounds like a good idea.

Do you think any of these will be too bulky at centre front? There is a TON of layers with all those pleats. The skirt has a different pattern piece for teh lining (with darts, not pleats) but the bodice front has the same pleats, so at CF there is 20+ layers (and that is WITHOUT underlining!)

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