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Turning a lined sleeveless dress
I'm trying to be sensible and work it out before I start !
lickerishwhip
lickerishwhip
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 3/30/03
Posts: 7
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Date: 8/2/12 10:38 AM

I'm making the overdress from

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid=12986

(sorry for the lack of clicky I'm at work and can't turn the scripts on to make it work)

And I want to make it fully lined. I'm happy to add a facing to the neckline if it'll make things easier but would prefer not to.

Before I start sewing I like to have an idea of how I'm going to do things and I can't wrap my brain around how I'm going to turn this if I sew the hem and oversized armholes up. My thought were to sew the gores into the side seams, then the hem and the armholes leaving the shoulders and neck unsewn. Then turn it, sew the shoulders together then sew the necklines together and the facing on to cover the neckline seam.

Will this work ? Will it turn ? Is there an easier way ? I've confused myself and probably over thought the whole thing and now my brain hurts !
-- Edited on 8/2/12 10:39 AM --

mamafitz
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mamafitz
Wisconsin USA
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In reply to lickerishwhip <<
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Date: 8/2/12 12:12 PM

you can do it one of two ways:
1. sew shoulder seams on both overdress and lining
2. sew neckline RST, turn and press
3. sew the front half of the armholes RST, trim and clip
4. sew the back half of the armholes RST, trim, clip, press entire armhole
5. sew side seam RST in one long seam, the armhole seam will be in the center, with the lining on one side, the garment on the other.
Here is one of my really old webpages showing this.

other way:
1. sew front to back RST at side seams, both on overdress and lining
2. sew necklines RST, leaving about the last 3" or so at the shoulder unsewn. turn and press (your shoulder seams will NOT be sewn to each other.)
3. sew armholes RST, leaving the last 3" or so at the shoulder unsewn. turn and press
4. sew shoulder seams together both on over dress and lining. press open.
5. finish sewing neckline together at the shoulder seam.
6. hand sew the lining to the overdress on the armhole side at the shoulder seam.
i'm sure there are some pictures on how to do this on the web. usually the pattern companies show this way of doing it also, in their directions. i don't like this way as much.

------
Linda

Girls do not dress for boys. They dress for themselves, and of course, each other. If girls dressed for boys, they’d just walk around naked at all times.
-- Betsey Johnson


http://mamafitz.blogspot.com

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Kansas USA
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Date: 8/2/12 12:32 PM

I have done this the ways Linda suggests, and they both work nicely. I'll also often sew up the whole dress and the whole lining individually, and then sew them together at the neck (aka "bagged lining"). Pull the lining into the dress, line everything up nicely, and finish the armholes by hand (or topstitching). This one is my favorite, probably just because I've done it a lot more often.

A few more methods:
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com/2010/08/all-machine-clean-finish-sleeveless.html
This one is really popular on PR.

http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html
Scroll about 3/4 down the page to where she posts instructions for Sandra Betzina's "Gold Medal Lining" method, as well as another method for turning a garment through the straps.

This should give you lots of options, and you can figure out which one would work best for you!

------
~Gem in the prairie

lickerishwhip
lickerishwhip
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 3/30/03
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Date: 8/2/12 1:41 PM

My problem was I had a silly idea of sewing the hem before turning which I think makes it impossible to turn unless I hand sew/bind the armholes and the neck.

I think that more sensibly I will follow Linda's first set of directions as that makes the most sense rather than trying to pull a million miles of fabric through a shoulder seam.

Its weird as soon as I stopped thinking aboout it my brain sort of figured it out (at least that sewing the hem was a silly plan anyway !)

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 8/2/12 2:21 PM

arrgghhh if only I had seen this 9 months ago when I was making a lined dress without instructions for the lining (I added one). Would have made for a neater finish. Should I attempt such a feet again the two techniques mentioned here sound so much more sensible than my earlier attempt!

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 9/18/04
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Date: 8/2/12 5:58 PM

I don't know if this technique applies to the original project, but it's a clever way to join lined straps on sleeveless top/dress. It somewhat similar to Linda's first technique, in that you sew the side seams last. I think Deb sewed the lining and fashion fabric side seam all in one pass, but the One Long Seam For Lining and Then Fashion Fabric Side Seams would work, also.

Deb Thompson's photo tutorial for Burda's process for attaching facings (or a lining) to a sleeveless bodice.

Scroll down a bit to see the tutorial.

CMC

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