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Pants muslin partial success but.....
pants fitting
kittybishop
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kittybishop
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Date: 8/2/12 7:45 PM

Have made up my first pants muslin and surprisingly the fit wasn't too horrible but I do have a couple of issues, one which I think I've found the answer to on the boards, the second I'm having problems pinning down the solution. So would appreciate some feedback as to whether I'm correct in my assumption about the problem.

The first problem appears to be a wedgie at the back, which I'm going to try scooping the back crotch and see if that solves it. The second is a problem that I have in RTW and that is a horizontal type fold at the front, it's not right at crotch level, it's just above the bottom of the zip. According to the Colette patterns cheat sheet, a flat stomach can result in pooling in the front but with vertical wrinkles, so I'm discounting that, although I have a fairly flat tummy. So I'm thinking that I somehow, have to do the opposite crotch alteration at the front to the one at the back. (Hope that makes sense, my brain is fogged by trying to figure it out). Would that be right.

For reference, I am petite, with all my shortness in my upper body and hip area and the pattern is a Burda petite one,
this one.


Burda 06/11

Thanks in advance.

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/2/12 8:38 PM

It sounds like you might need a tilted waist alteration. Check the front and back rise, because based on your description it sounds like your front rise is too long and your back rise too short.

I pretty much always have to make this change - add a 'wedge' to the back rise and fold one out in the front.

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Nancy K
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Date: 8/2/12 8:38 PM

Cute pants. I'd say that you have too much length in the front crotch. Pin out a tuck, if the back is not too long use a horizontal dart. Wider at cf narrowing to nothing at the side seam.
Of course I am guessing here. I'd have a better chance of getting it right if you post some pictures. You should have four. Front straight on, side straight on, back straight on and the remaining side.
Make sure that your hands are down and that you are standing naturally.

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Courtney Ostaff
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In reply to kittybishop <<
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Date: 8/2/12 8:40 PM

This might help:

AdaH
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 8/3/12 0:44 AM

Love the Wrinkle Chart. Where ever did you find it?

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Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 8/3/12 1:29 AM

Out of print fitting book :)

Karla Kizer
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Date: 8/3/12 7:30 AM

I can think of a couple of possibilities: too much front length or a pronounced (rounded) front thigh shape that pushes the pants front up in a quest for more fabric. (I've spent years dealing with that combination of complications....only to pass the same problems along to my offspring.)

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kittybishop
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kittybishop
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Date: 8/3/12 8:15 AM

Right looking at the photos, I definitely have an issue at the back, the waist fits fine, no gaping but as these are high waisted, I wouldn't expect issues there. Maybe I should do a full butt adjustment, or should I sort out the crotch issues first?

Yes, I love the look of these pants, although I chose them mostly because I wouldn't have to do petite alterations to them.

kittybishop
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kittybishop
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In reply to Karla Kizer <<


Date: 8/3/12 8:32 AM

Could most definitely be a pronounced round thigh, I power walk a mile a day. My thighs and calves are fairly well developed

Having another try at uploading photos
here

kittybishop
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kittybishop
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Date: 8/3/12 8:38 AM

Hmmm, looking at the photos, I'm not sure that my problem is the crotch, think I've got a few more problems to solve than I thought from a glance in the mirror. How thoroughly depressing....

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