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How to hem a circle skirt?
bicrafty
bicrafty
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Georgia USA
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Date: 8/3/12 10:22 PM

So I'm at the hemming stage on a dress for my daughter and I'm pretty sure it's considered a 'circle skirt' since it's...well...basically a circle. But I'm wondering about this hemming business.

I've pinned up a 5/8" hem allowance, but it's kinda...wonky? Like it needs to be clipped? There are pleats naturally forming between the pins.

I was going to create a narrow hem by pressing it at the 5/8" allowance and then turning the raw edge under until it meets the crease and pressing again. But if I clip it and then try to turn it under...wouldn't that just create a lot of hassle? Should I clip it at all?

Is there a better way to do this that doesn't require tons of work? I've seen a Youtube video of how to create a narrow hem on a circle skirt by Gertie from Gertie's Better Sewing Blog, but it seems like a bit much for a toddler's dress. Plus, the skirt front and back are already sewn together, per the instructions, and it seems like that video was for a skirt still in pieces? I didn't have the sound on, so I may be wrong on that point....

Thank you in advance for any and all input!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 8/3/12 10:24 PM

Usually you have to gather up the hem and press it. Then stitch it down as usual. Harrow hems require less gathering than wide ones

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nicegirl
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Date: 8/3/12 11:26 PM

If you have one, I find a narrow hemming foot is best for circle skirts. If you don't have one, 5/8" is an awfully wide hem allowance for a circle, as you've learned! Though manually rolling a small hem under is annoying, it might be easier if you trim the allowance down to 3/8".

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Wandy
Wandy
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In reply to bicrafty <<


Date: 8/4/12 1:11 AM

hi bicrafty,
Could you let me know what fabric your daughters dress is made of ie - is it a very soft fluid fabric , cotton or velvet, also how much hem allowance have you got to play with. Did you make it for any special occasion. All these factors will be taken into account regards the hemming.

Looking forward to helping you. You can contact me thru P.R.

Regards Wandy

beauturbo
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In reply to bicrafty <<


Date: 8/4/12 1:33 AM

If you have a overlocker, before you narrow hem it with the sewing machine, if you serge off the bottom hem edge in overlock and crank up your differential feed while doing that to gather, then when you go afterwards to iron and fold the narrow hem, chances are it would already be gathered up enough, to turn smoothly with no puckers.

Scheri
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Scheri  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/4/12 1:41 AM

Can I suggest you check out Gertie's Blog.

Gertie's Blog

I am just working on a circle skirt and am adding horsehair braid to the hem.

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Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

genierita
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In reply to bicrafty <<


Date: 8/4/12 3:54 AM

The key is what fabric you are working with. Like buauturbo I would O/L first and turn under once and machine stitch for medium or heavier fabrics. For a very lightweight chiffon type I use a 2 or 3 thread rolled hem on my O/L. Best to hang dress a day or two to drop first. I cut 1cm longer than the required length with rotary cutter so you are working with a uniform neat edge. Sometimes I have to use stabiliser or tissue paper, but generally the diff. speed can be adjusted to cope with the grain changes. For a stage costume or bridesmaid or ballgown - ie a limited use dress - this is just fine. They look gorgeous!

Pj3g
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Pj3g  Friend of PR
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In reply to bicrafty <<


Date: 8/4/12 8:19 AM

Quote: bicrafty
I'm pretty sure it's considered a 'circle skirt' since it's...well...basically a circle.


I was going to create a narrow hem Is there a better way to do this that doesn't require tons of work?

I recently made a dress for my GD that had a full circle skirt. I did what the pattern told me to and it worked beautiful. First take your pins out and press the hem area of the skirt to make sure it's all flat and smooth.

Then:
Stitch 1/2 inch from raw edge
Turn in and press edge ALONG SIDE stitching line--in otherwords, the stitchline will be barely visible once it is pressed up a second time.

Trim off very close to stitch line

Turn up edge along trimmed edge, press and stitch around skirt again....done! With no ripples. and it turns out beautiful.

If this doesn't make sense let me know. I used this on a cotton pique' and it worked great. It's like making a machine rolled hem only without using that blasted rolled hem presser foot!

------
Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
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In reply to bicrafty <<


Date: 8/4/12 9:27 AM

5/8" is too wide for a full circle skirt -- the maximum I ever do is 3/8".

If you have a serger, run a narrow serge around the whole skirt, then turn up so that the serged edge is just barely to the inside and top-stitch.

Also with a serger, you can do a rolled hem if the fabric is suitable.

If you are using only a sewing machine, stitch a medium length stitch all the way around a scant 1/4" from the edge and then turn up so the stitching line is just to the inside (if you can do 1/8" that's even better). Press and then turn up again. Then topstitch/machine hem.

If it's a toddler dress, you could also serge all the way around and then add a piece of ric-rac or other trim over the edge to finish it.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
80.0 yards sewn (as of 11/23/14)
135.5 yards purchased (as of 11/23/14)

bicrafty
bicrafty
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Date: 8/5/12 9:33 PM

Thanks to everyone who replied!! I switched to a 3/8" hem allowance and that pretty much solved everything! I'm just using a quilting cotton for the dress and muslin for the lining.

This was my first narrow hem!
This was my first hem...ever!
This is my first sewing project...ever! Lol!

Again, thanks to all!

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