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serging sleeves in knit tops
any warnings?
marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 8/4/12 10:36 PM

Shelly is moving along; all I need to do is insert the sleeves and hem them.

I've never serged sleeves into the armholes. The sleeve seams have been sewn and I'm not doing a flat insertion.

Should I just go for it? Any warnings?

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Mary


marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 8/4/12 10:43 PM

Oh I remembered the knit sewalong thread and I'm over there reading right now.

I should have thought about it before posting this question.

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Mary


NhiHuynh
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 8/4/12 10:46 PM

Watch out for the cutting blade. I've accidentally nicked the top of my sleeves more than once.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to NhiHuynh <<


Date: 8/4/12 10:52 PM

Good point! I wouldn't have thought about that until after it happened.

------
Mary


marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 8/4/12 11:13 PM

I read backwards through the sew along until I got to the part about cutting out your top and didn't see anything about inserting sleeves (I may have overlooked it - it's late!)

I'm going to put them in using my conventional machine. I can always go back and serge if I want - at least I THINK I can!!

------
Mary


LynnRowe
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 8/5/12 1:36 AM

The usual method for knit tops is to sew (or serge) the sleeves in flat. It's quick, it's easy, and there is no need for any ease, so no need to set the sleeves in.

if you do set the sleeves in, I recommend you baste them first, with just a simple running stitch. The basting takes the place of pins. With everything in place, it's now easy to serge the sleeves.

A trick for starting the serging when serging "in the round"; with scissors, first trim off the seam allowance your serger blades would otherwise be trimming, for apx 1 - 2 inches along the length of the seam.

For example, if your seam allowance is 5/8" and your serger width will be 1/4"' your serger blades will be cutting off 3/8" of the seam allowance. So trim off 3/8" of your seam allowance for an inch or two, lift the presser foot and slide the fabric underneath, placing the trimmed area right behind the knife blade (as if the knives had already cut the seam allowance off) and begin serging, with the start of the uncut seam allowance right in front of the knife.

This method prevents your loopers from hitting any seam allowance, which can damage them.

Serge your seam per usual, and as you come to the pre-trimmed area, simply serge over it as well. The knives won't cut any fabic, as you already did that, but the seam allowance will be overlocked. Overlap the beginning serging for an inch or so, and then serge off, per usual.



-- Edited on 8/5/12 1:46 AM --

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

LynnRowe
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 8/5/12 1:42 AM

Yes you certainly can. You can baste, as per my post above this, or you can machine stitch the seam, and then serge it. The machine stitching just takes the place of the hand basting.

Still trim a small section of the seam allowance away, per post above, so the loopers don't hit the fabric when you first start to serge.

Some people don't pre-trim; instead they "serge on to" the fabric from the edge of the fabric to where they want to be on the seamline, serge around the seam, and then serge off the fabric. This works, too, but it can be easy to over-shoot the stitching line when serging on, and the wonky start needs to be fully trimmed off. Pre-trimming is quick and easy.

Wow I cannot speel porperly tonight!
-- Edited on 8/5/12 1:52 AM --

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

Elizabeth made this
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Elizabeth made this  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/5/12 8:11 AM

My preference is to cut the SA down to 1/4" on the pattern itself. It's impossible to serge evenly on my machine, and I've noticed that I'm a lot more accurate with 1/4" seams anyhow. As a bonus, sleeves go in super fast this way, but you will have to do it in the flat.

------
emadethis.wordpress.com

The best project you could be working on is the one that's on the table right now.

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 8/5/12 5:59 PM

I was sewing after midnight so I wimped out and just used my new to me Featherweight to stitch the sleeves in the round (I had already serged the underarms and the sleeve seams and there was no turning back.

StyleArc had a 1/4" s.a. so I just went with it. Both sleeves went in without a pucker but I should probably go back and at least finish the seams.

Thanks for all the details. Lynn - I'm thinking about copying and pasting your posts here into the sew along thread. Is that okay with you?

------
Mary


LynnRowe
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 8/5/12 6:23 PM

Totally fine with me.

Congrats on the sleeves, looking forward to your review!

------
I heart Panzy, Pfaff Creative Performance, the sewing machine love of my life!
And Baby (Enlighten serger), Victor (BLCS), Rupert (Pfaff 2023-knits expert) Ash (B350SE-Artwork), Kee (B750QEE-Panzy's BFF), Georgie (B560-Kee's baby sister) and the Feather-Flock!

Most of all, I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

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