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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pattern Alteration? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pattern Alteration?
mommy2myboy
mommy2myboy
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Date: 8/7/12 5:15 PM

First off I hope I am posting this in the right thread/board.

Today I purchased a B5763 Butterick pattern from Jo Ann's and plan to make the B long dress. It has been so long since I have used a pattern and not to mention I am such a beginner. I was unsure how much fabric to purchase because of my measurements versus what the pattern says. SO... I went and asked a lady that was giving sewing lessons about it and she said that my measurements showed 22W- 24 W. But that she would do a size misses 14 because the neck would be too big and just be hanging on me. This is a maternity pattern and she said that it would have plenty of room to give. I was unable to stay and ask more questions. My question to you all do I make a size 14 neck and 22-24 for the rest? I can't afford to waste the material and have it not turn out. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to mommy2myboy <<


Date: 8/7/12 7:00 PM

The teacher must have been leaning you towards the upper bust measurement. If you take your full bust measurement(especially while pregnant)and you are bigger than a B cup, it can cause problems with the neck/shoulder area. She is right. Most Maternity patterns are gaged for the extra room. You should purchase the same size in Maternity, that you would in "regular" patterns.

mommy2myboy
mommy2myboy
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Date: 8/7/12 7:52 PM

Yes, she was leaning towards the upper bust measurement and I am bigger than a B. Good to know that she was right about the extra room. Do I just cut 2 different sizes? Because if I go with the size 14 for the complete dress I know that my waist is not 28 inches and I don't want this to be too tight.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to mommy2myboy <<


Date: 8/7/12 8:07 PM

You buy patterns with your upper bust measurement in mind because this measurement also works in conjunction with the neck and across the bust area, which are the two hardest to fit areas and are a real "bear" to reduce in size.

To answer your question, yes, you add to the side seams for your waist and hip measurements. You would also have to do an FBA if your cup size is bigger than a B. There are many tutorials here on PR that can help with the FBA, as well as give you some idea how to add to the side seams. You can also find many sewing resources in the form of books and e-books that show you this as well.

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mommy2myboy
mommy2myboy
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Date: 8/7/12 11:41 PM

So did i buy the wrong pattern size? I bought the 18-24W. Sorry to be asking so many questions.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to mommy2myboy <<


Date: 8/8/12 7:42 AM

I'm sorry, I probably didn't make it clear. What you need to do is measure your upper bust (this is above the fullest part of your bustline) and then measure your regular bust. Subtract the two numbers. If the difference is more than 2-1/2", buy the pattern by the upper bust measurement and do an FBA as well as increase the waist and hip area out to your desired measurement.

I always have to increase the hip area because not only are my hips larger in proportion to the bustline on the pattern, but my shoulders are so narrow that I have to use a smaller pattern.
-- Edited on 8/8/12 7:44 AM --

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to mommy2myboy <<


Date: 8/8/12 11:51 AM

Mommy, Miss Fairchild is right on the mark. To get your upper bust measurement, bring the tape measure up over your bust line(not across the full bust), under your armpits and pull snuggly, not tight. I would also be sure to check the "finished garment" measurements. If you are working with Maternity clothing, it already has "grow" built in, but it may start out with "ease" before that. The Butterick pattern you are using, has a lot of loosey goosey room going on to start with.

Take your upper bust measurement and post it here, then we can let you know if you got the right size pattern. If she measured you at a 14, the pattern you got may be a bit large in the shoulder neck area.

Did I totally confuse you ?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 8/8/12 12:05 PM

Go back to the teacher and ask if you can sign up for a class on fitting. Or, a private lesson for fitting.

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 8/8/12 4:13 PM

PattiAnn, this is a great suggestion. Unfortunately, if the lady doesn't do private lessons, she won't be able to get the lessons through Joanns. I've been pushing to get some fitting classes lined up at our local Joanns. The local Education Coordinator wants to offer them as well. It's all about getting around corporate. They have these core lessons we are suppose to teach.

I've had several ladies who really want to learn more about FBA's(they didn't know what FBA's were, until I explained why their blouses weren't fitting). I've been doing my own for a while now and can at least give them the "tools" they need to start working with their own. As a matter of fact, the coordinator called me today. Seems a lady asked if she brought in her own "simple" pattern, would someone help her fit the shoulders and neck...

I can almost see everyone nodding their heads and thinking...hummm, she is choosing her patterns by the full bust measurement, instead of high bust

mommy2myboy
mommy2myboy
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Date: 8/9/12 10:48 AM

Okay the upper bust measurement is 43 inches. She did not measure me and just said that she sews and that she was bigger than me and she never made any bigger than a 14-16 for herself in the neck because it would hang and that I would have the same problem.

I will see if I can take a class from her. I just won't be able to swing it before I finish this dress though. :(

Thanks for all the feedback. I greatly appreciate it and for you all being so kind to take time out of your day to respond.

As a side note I bought Double-Sided Stiff Fusible Interfacing for the dress. The pattern calls for lightweight. Will this work?

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