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Forum > Fitting Woes > kwik sew 3489 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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kwik sew 3489
Has no finished bust size
solveg
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solveg  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/7/12 10:30 PM

I got This wrap dress pattern and read all the write ups on it. It's one of the new versions of it with the tissue pattern, if that matters. It has a finished edge size for the hips, but not for the bust. The reviews indicate it can run up to 3 sizes too large, the bodice more so than the rest.

However, looking at the "big' versions, they don't look all that bad. Not nearly as nice as the smaller version, but they don't look "big"---just more unfitted.

It's a kwik start pattern and I've found that some of these do lack finished edge info. I think it's designed to be very forgiving of fit.

So what do I do? I really don't know how much ease is in here, except for reports from smaller sizes. Should I measure the pattern and try to figure it out? Or just guess and go from there?
-- Edited on 8/7/12 10:31 PM --

JEF
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 8/7/12 10:37 PM

Definitely measure and don't forget to NOT measure the seam allowances. I do this my using my tape measure and start it after the seam allowance then just put my finger on the measure when the next seam allowance starts and then skip over that seam allowance and the next and keep measuring all the way around at bust level.

If you do it quickly and estimate the bust level you may not get a perfect measurement but you'll get a good idea (compared to your own measurements) how much bigger the garment will be than you.

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

solveg
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Date: 8/8/12 7:07 AM

ok. measure I will. And thanks for the reminder about the seam allowances. I totally would have forgotten about that!

One more question... this is a pattern for knits, and I've never adjusted a knits pattern before. I hear they can have negative ease, and that makes sense. But that leaves you more in the dark in the beginning, right?

And I'm a bit confused about making a knit muslin. First, each knit is so different-- it seems like if you use 2 drastically different knits you'd have to alter the pattern differently for each one. Is this right?

And you can't really make a "muslin" unless you buy the same kind of knit.

And thirdly, I heard cheap knits were NOT beginner friendly, and it bothers me to cut into good (and expensive) fabric just to mark it up and stuff. Even if I got it on sale it would bother me to waste good fabric.

I got the impression from the reviews that experience sewists just chose their normal size and went on faith, even sewing the bust dart as is and being surprised by it. Is that just the way it is with knits?

Lynnelle
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 8/8/12 7:38 AM

Be sure to verify the allowance added. Kwik Sew often uses 1/4-inch (instead of 5/8) seam allowances for knits. Since they were bought out by McVoguerick, I don't know if they changed this or not.

diane s
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 8/8/12 12:33 PM

Quote: solveg


And I'm a bit confused about making a knit muslin. First, each knit is so different-- it seems like if you use 2 drastically different knits you'd have to alter the pattern differently for each one. Is this right?



And you can't really make a "muslin" unless you buy the same kind of knit.



And thirdly, I heard cheap knits were NOT beginner friendly, and it bothers me to cut into good (and expensive) fabric just to mark it up and stuff. Even if I got it on sale it would bother me to waste good fabric.




I learned to sew knits the Stretch & Sew method. This is their rule of thumb. Let's say you're making a dress that requires a knit with 25% stretch, and your knit has 50% stretch, you would go down 1 size. If your knit is stable, you would go up 1 size.
If your knit has around a 10% difference, you can stay your size and alter with the seam allowances. It's good to use 1" side seams so that can happen, not much room to let out 1/4" seams. I also never serge when I'm making a pattern for the first time, I use my sewing machine.(much easier to pick out) If I like the outcome, I can go back and serge.
It is possible to make a trial garment out of a woven. It needs to be quite tight, and may not fit over your head, but on a wrap dress that won't matter. My favorite fabric for knit muslins is jersy sheets. I buy top sheets at garage sales and thrift stores. Sometimes they have cheap sets at places like Ross.
You can also compare the pattern pieces with a knit garment you already own, and that can help you decide on size.
Every knit is different, the drape, the stretch, so you often need to fine tune the fit in the end.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

solveg
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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 8/8/12 3:21 PM

!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is amazing information. I wonder how I would have learned that if not for this website????

So now I just need to figure out how much my knit stretches.

Very cool.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 8/8/12 4:13 PM

...And that tip about jersey sheets for muslins is *brilliant!*

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~Gem in the prairie

woggy
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 8/8/12 5:59 PM

solveg,

I took some Stretch & Sew classes in the 1970's and found this information in my notes:

Take 10 inches of fabric and stretch it.

If it stretches 12.5 inches with ease the stretch is 25%
If it stretches 15 inches with ease the stretch is 50%
If it stretches 17.5 inches with ease the stretch is 75%
IF it stretches 20 inches with ease the stretch is 100%

HTH

Woggy

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to solveg <<


Date: 8/8/12 6:10 PM

Cute pattern! Why couldn't I find that when I was looking for something to make out of my interlock knit??!!

I would say go down a size but make your seam allowances larger. If this pattern calls for 1/4", then cut out extra width and make your seam allowances 5/8". That way, you can let them out where you need to. A lot of people when making muslins for the first time, make 1" seam allowances by adding extra fabric and then sewing.

The dress being wrapped would make the fit a little more forgiving, especially if you made a mistake. My all time favorite outfit (in the 70's..) was a wrap jumpsuit (it was shorter in length, like skirt length) I was very small busted then and the wrapped part was very easy to alter; I just took in the side seams a little more, and trimmed off a little from CF to allow for my small bust size.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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Judy Kski
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Date: 8/8/12 7:06 PM

The dress didn't show up for me on PR. All I got was an error message. Here is the dress from the Kwik Sew pattern website, KS 3489. Now anyone else who has the same problem can view the pattern.

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Judy

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