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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > using interlining ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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using interlining
in a jacket
rmusic1
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rmusic1
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 1060
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 8/10/12 2:39 AM

I'm making a chanel jacket (the vogue version) and as my fashion fabric doesnt have much structure I've decided to use interlining. The fashion fabric is a virgin wool. To give you an idea I used it to make some trousers, and this will be a matching jacket.

I bought some wool tweed to help give it some extra support and also warmth, as I dont want this to be a jacket left in the closet because it's too cool to wear.

So, my vogue handbook said you have to cut out the interlining using the lining pieces, which makes sense. Any other tips out there on what I should do?

I am going to hand baste the pieces together, because I read if you do this by machine it can create bobbling as the fabric draws up. Once I have done this I was thinking maybe I could serge the pieces together, to prevent ravelling and also keep everything from shifting. Is this a good idea?

One last further question. Do I need to still use interfacing on any of the pieces, or does inerlining replace this?

Thanks for any advice, this is new territory for me.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
New York USA
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 8/10/12 9:09 PM

If you are making the couture version of this jacket then the lining quilted to the outer fabric is what gives it stability. It is not meant to be an outer jacket. If you are using the new Claire Shaeffer pattern she gives excellent instructions on how to do it. The goal is to get a suit jacket to feel like a sweater.
If you want to stabilize the outer fabric without having to employ couture methods than you would underline the outer fabric with something like cotton batiste or silk organza depending on the feel you want. Interlining is applied to the lining for warmth. If you want to wear this as an outer jacket you'd need to make some changes like lowering the underarm and adding some overall ease.

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 1060
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 8/13/12 5:58 PM

thank you Nancy K for the advice. The fabric would really not be warm enough to wear unless it was very mild weather without some extra help, and I'd like to wear it more in winter/autumn. Hence the modification. I dont intend to quilt the fabric, its a subtle herringbone weave so I dont think that would go!

I've just posted another question in the beginner forum about interfacing, as I've not done interlining before its all a new experience. I appreciate your input.

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