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Why add facings to an inserted seam pocket?
Just curious!
VolcanoMouse
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VolcanoMouse
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Date: 8/12/12 9:46 PM

I want to add pockets to an unlined skirt I'm working on. I'm drafting what Helen Joseph-Armstrong's 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design' calls a 'inserted seam pocket'-- the sort of pocket you see on the hips of all denim and khaki trousers with the front piece cutaway, not an invisible side-seam pocket.

The textbook tells me to draft facings for the back and front pockets, which makes sense when I think of how denim trouser pockets are constructed: if you use put the back pocket behind the front cutaway, you would see the lining fabric, not denim. But I'm just using a sturdy woven cotton for a skirt, and I think I could make the pockets out of self-fabric without adding any bulk to the finished garment.

Is there any reason to construct those extra facings when I'm using self-fabric for the pockets? I can only imagine it might be done to stabilize the pocket opening.

Or I might be even totally off-- is there a reason why I shouldn't be making pockets out of self-fabric at all?

I hope this is intelligible! Thank you in advance: PatternReview is the ONLY place I could hope to ask this question. :)

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 8/13/12 8:09 AM

I make these types of pockets often, even on DH's pants. I use self fabric for the whole pocket instead of just the facing, if the fabric is thin enough and won't get bulky. It usually with denim or twill that it gets bulky.

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VolcanoMouse
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Date: 8/13/12 12:09 PM

Good to know, thank you!

It's tiny things like this that infuriate me about this textbook: it'll tell you HOW to execute techniques, but never WHY! ;)

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 8/13/12 12:17 PM

Quote: VolcanoMouse
Good to know, thank you!



It's tiny things like this that infuriate me about this textbook: it'll tell you HOW to execute techniques, but never WHY! ;)

They are testing your noodle!

Think......stress needs reinforcement.

Experts also add a strip of interfacing to the seam allowance when putting in a zipper. This may, or may not be in your sewing reference.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

GlButterfly

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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 8/13/12 2:13 PM

After reading your post a few times, I'm thinking that you are asking if you can eliminate the pocket facing piece because you are using self fabric for the entire pocket. Is that correct?

If it's not correct, then could you please rephrase your question?

If my understanding is correct, then no, you cannot eliminate that piece. Otherwise you would have pants with a cutout and a backing piece, but this would not form a pocket. You need a piece (the facing) behind the pants to act as the other side of the pocket.

There is such a thing as a "one-layer pocket" where you eliminate the facing and to form the pocket, you need to stitch the shape on the outside. This is usually done only on casual clothes.

In my edition of Armstrong's book she just give instructions for cutting the pieces, but does not state whether they should be cut from lining fabric or self-fabric. This book is a textbook and the final cutting would be up to the individual.

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VolcanoMouse
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Date: 8/15/12 1:55 PM

Aah, no, GIButterfly, I see why my first post was confusing. I was asking if I needed all four pieces of the inserted side seam pocket (Armstrong calls them the pocket lining, pocket backing, entry facing, and back facing) when using self-fabric for the pocket bag (lining and backing).

I guess the question might have been approached from a different angle by asking "are the pocket facings for anything but aesthetics?" Or "is there any reason NOT to use self-fabric for the pocket lining and backing?" Sorry for the confusion!

I made an attempt at sewing the pockets in self-fabric, using only the pocket front and back and no facings, and they look quite nice. My only (and unrelated to facings, etc) problem is the side seam: it did get a bit bulky where all those pocket layers are basted down. Still trying to figure out how to trim it and which seam finish is most appropriate.

GlButterfly

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Date: 8/16/12 4:00 AM

Thank you for reposting. I just wanted to make certain that you weren't trying to cut corners.

Those pockets can certainly make for a lot of bulk in the seam allowances. Too bad we can't make the allowances only out of a thin fabric.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to VolcanoMouse <<


Date: 8/16/12 8:22 AM

Quote:
My only (and unrelated to facings, etc) problem is the side seam: it did get a bit bulky where all those pocket layers are basted down. Still trying to figure out how to trim it and which seam finish is most appropriate.

Try making where the facing and the pocket come together into a notch, and then clip it. You might want to make the facing part out of a thinner fabric (you won't be able to see it because it folds inside) and the others out of self fabric.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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