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Forum > Fitting Woes > Princess seam jacket fit ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Princess seam jacket fit
help!
chenille
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chenille  Friend of PR
Member since 7/4/11
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Date: 8/13/12 1:52 AM

I am sewing my first jacket - hoping this turns into a wearable muslin.
basted open front
I basted this without making any adjustments to the pattern beforehand. I did take a deeper seam allowance in the side back starting 1" below the AH to just above the waist. I do need to redo the R side back, but the L side back is lined up correctly. This is just left open.
front pinned closed
Next, I pinned the front closed - there will be large hook and eye to have the fronts just meet - no overlap. I am a little concerned about the AH depth, and looks like the front is tilting forward slightly but don't know if this is from the stance, while the back is collapsing somewhat under the shoulder blades.
You can see this more clearly if you click on magnified view.
Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
I did fix the excess fabric in the back by taking a straight 1/2" decrease just above the waist. It still seems to be tilting to the back - and I have plenty of room in the bust area.
MTA: I haven't clipped or pressed the princess seams yet.
-- Edited on 8/13/12 1:57 AM --

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
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In reply to chenille <<


Date: 8/13/12 11:32 AM

I just did a princess seam jacket for my mom, and though perhaps I'm overfitting, IMHO, you suffer from an excess of fabric, more than anything else. I did a quick sketch to show you where I'd alter. But this is just me, and I'm no expert, so feel free to dismiss it entirely.

chenille
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chenille  Friend of PR
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<


Date: 8/13/12 3:23 PM

Thanks, Courtney - I agree - I also repositioned the front shoulder seam.
Much obliged! I'll let you know how it goes.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to chenille <<
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Date: 8/13/12 3:37 PM

This is looking good Just a suggestion, but before you do to many adjustments, put the sleeves in. It can make a real difference.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
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Date: 8/13/12 3:50 PM

I would second the sleeves!

chenille
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chenille  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/13/12 6:33 PM

good idea - I think I'll also baste in the front facing/collar to see how that affects the drape as well.

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