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Forum > Fitting Woes > McCall's 6565 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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McCall's 6565
A strange dart position that I can't understand
Tizmehr
Tizmehr
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Date: 8/13/12 4:47 PM

I'm trying to work on McCall's 6565 I'm making view c with the gathers at bust level. The gathers fall where I would think they should be. However, the front facing pattern piece has me totally perplexed. The dart finishes well above the bust apex, as in an inch or more. How odd is that. There are no reviews for this pattern so I decided to email the company. Here's what I got back from them:

"This is a misses pattern, and the cup size is B. The dart is slightly above to eliminate the “point” at the bust. You can shorten it if you prefer, but this is as the designer intended. I’ve reviewed this with my pattern maker and no error has been found."

I don't understand. How can they think that a dart ending above the bust will fit anyone?
The dart starts at an under the bust seamline at extends up, over the bust and the end of the stitching is even with the underarm.
Am I missing something? I'll have all the shaping above the bust if I do it the way the pattern is telling me to? I just can't get my head around this.

JTink
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 8/13/12 5:33 PM

Can you post a picture of the piece in question? Yesterday, I sent a letter to Simplicity, because of faulty instructions. Still waiting to hear back on that one

JEF
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 8/13/12 5:40 PM

So funny you posted this today ...

This morning I was listening to Peggy Sagers' recent recent webcast on French darts. She mentioned that she's seen bust darts that finish above the bust point recently in RTW and it's a style detail. I thought "I've never seen that - sounds crazy." Then, darned if I didn't see it today Popeye's when I was getting my daughter some chicken strips. Sure enough, the cashier had a top (that fit her well) and the bust dart ended at least an inch above her bust point. I had to remember my manners and not to stare to see exactly how high above

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

Nancy1955
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Subject: McCalls 6565 Date: 8/13/12 9:23 PM

I was shopping for a white blouse and found one that fit perfectly but the bust dart ended above my bust point. While the blouse fit amazingly well, the dart was too noticeable.

woggy
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In reply to JEF <<


Date: 8/15/12 1:54 PM

Last spring, I was shopping for a new dress to wear to my niece's wedding. I was shocked to see in the better dress selection at Macy's a dress with the darts sewn on the outside!

At first, I thought the darts were sewn wrong and could not believe Macy's would try to sell it at full price - it was expensive. I found two more dresses in two different sizes and the darted material was on the outside.

I was shocked that some designer actually thought the dress was attractive with the darted material on the outside of the dress instead of inside. It would have been a lovely dress if the darted material had been in the inside.

I am losing faith in many of the designers of woman's clothes today. I am also a senior citizen so I know my tastes are not the same as a 20-30 year old.

Why would a designer want a bust dart to stop above the bust point? If I saw someone wearing a blouse with the bust dart above the bust point, then I would think the blouse was too small for the body.

Woggy

meleliza
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Date: 8/16/12 9:48 AM

I don't see darts on the line drawings, so I'm having a hard time picturing this. By facing, do yu mean on the inside? Because if it doesn't show and it fits well, who cares? Now I really want to go look for some of these tops with the darts on the outside. I'd would love to know what the designers had in mind. I wonder if it shows off the girls better? Because I've only got a few good years left and I'd like to make the most of them.

------
Melanie

Tizmehr
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Subject: McCalls 6565 Date: 8/17/12 7:31 AM

Meleliza, yes, that's what I mean. The odd dart is on the inside and won't be seen. However, all I can think of is that the top will be tight around the bust and the shaping will all be above the bust and cause a 'bubble' of fabric there.
I think I'll do a muslin the way the pattern is and see what happens. I'm not very confident that it'll fit well. I've pondered this for ages and now I'm going to have to put this top on the back burner for a bit. I'll report back on how the muslin turns out though.

nicegirl
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Date: 8/17/12 8:33 AM

This just happened to me with Simplicity 2177. It is very odd. The fit is ok, though, so you probably don't need to worry about the facing here.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

Tizmehr
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Subject: McCalls 6565 Date: 8/17/12 1:26 PM

Thank you so much for posting that picture. I just have to tell you that I think the fabric you used for that dress is really lovely.
I never would have thought that sort of dart would work. Even after seeing your dart, I'm still dubious. Having played around with the pattern, I think the whole thing is a bit wonky. Can't remember which seams it is, but there are seams that, when I hold them together, don't appear to match up . I asked about that when I wrote to McCall's but it wasn't addressed in their reply. Also the facing bodice ends kind of mid-bust. Not where I think I'd put it. A muslin is definitely required for this pattern!

nicegirl
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 8/17/12 4:54 PM

Quote: Tizmehr
I never would have thought that sort of dart would work. Even after seeing your dart, I'm still dubious.

You are definitely right to be dubious. Had I realized the dart placement was so weird I would have altered the pattern to make it normal (this was a wearable muslin of sorts). I will not be seeking this style out, but for this one project it was not a disaster.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

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