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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > help with chanel jacket please ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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help with chanel jacket please
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
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Date: 8/13/12 5:48 PM

I'm making this vogue jacket in option A.

If you would like a picture of the fabric and interlining I am using please visit here

I've just cut out the interfacing and attached them to the facing pieces. I'm left a little concerned after just adding the interfaced and non interfaced front pieces together this is getting a tad bulky. There is literally 5 layers of fabric going on there because of the inter lining.

So, a few options I was mulling over. Skip fashion fabric facings and use lining to reduce bulk (have read reviews for this pattern where people have done this).

Or take out interlining from non interfaced front pattern piece to reduce bulk. I dont want to have this section TOO stiff and am worried if I trundle on as is it will be.

Thank you!
-- Edited on 8/13/12 6:12 PM --

Sarsez
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Sarsez
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/2/09
Posts: 747
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 8/13/12 8:46 PM

Here are my thoughts but please note, I haven't used that particular pattern and my sum experience at making Chanel type jackets is currently WIP.......

Personally, I would not have interlined the jacket. Interlining goes only the body of the garment and it is there for warmth and or wind shield. Usually you see coats (with all of their wearing ease) interlined not jackets.
Chanel jackets, in particular, are very soft and drapey (but still with some weight) and are designed to fit quite close to the body. Chanel got around the softness of the fabric by quilting the lining to the fabric to give it some "soft" body. Interlining might make the jacket a little tight and stiff to wear.
I can understand why you would want to underline your fabric because if it does make a great pair of wide legged trousers then it does sound as though it doesn't have enough "guts" for a jacket. But I would be underlining not interling. Choices for underlining could be cotton flannelette, silk organza or a fuseable interfacing. You would have to experiement with scraps.

For my current project I have not quilted the lining to the fabric but I have used a very light weight fusable interfacing for the yokes and facings. Even with such light choices, the bulk is starting to build up!

Good luck with your jacket and I'm sorry I don't have a magic answer!

------
24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
Remember to shop your stash girl!
Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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TX USA
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Date: 8/14/12 7:29 AM

I agree that jackets of this style are generally supposed to be lightweight. But one of the reasons we sew is to change things up.

What I would do (warning, this will be a little time-consuming) is cut off the seam allowances of the interlining where you are concerned about bulk. Then, instead of securing the interlining in the seam, tack the edges to your fashion fabric with little invisible hand stitches. If you have even a suspicion that there is too much bulk, there probably is.

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

jannw
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jannw  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WA USA
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 8/14/12 7:58 AM

I've made this pattern, but always did it with a boucle and lined to the edge so I never used the facings. With my fabric choice and the lining, it came out more like a sweater than a formal jacket/blazer. Lining to the edge and eliminating the facings seems to be the best option to me, given where you are at in the construction process. Good luck with it and I just wanted to say that I've enjoyed all your posts regarding your classes and progress.

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/14/12 11:39 AM

To keep the soft, Chanel-ish quality of this jacket, I would recommend taking out the interlining. There is a risk of a stiff and boxy look with too many layers.
-- Edited on 8/14/12 11:41 AM --

PattyE
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PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI
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Date: 8/14/12 3:31 PM

I made this pattern a few years ago but I did not interline it. My fabric was a medium-weight tweedy type.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 8/18/12 9:31 AM

thank you everyone for all of your advice! I thought you would like to know how things have been going for me since I last posted here. I've decided to ditch the fashion fabric as facing (with its counter part interfacing) as that would have been too much bulk and too stiff.

That's now being replaced with a lining fabric facing. Another change is that after I am confident of the fit, I am trimming as close as possible to the seam all of the interfacing and inerlining fabric to reduce the bulk there as well. It appears to be working well and I am really pleased my gamble is not turning in to a disaster.

I know some of you have warned me off this, but I am one of those slightly stubborn bit between teeth sewers who once they have a vision is not easily deterred....something which can lead ot heartbreak, but also result in a great deal of satisfaction if it works.

A special thanks to the encouragement from blue mooney and jannw. I really appreciate it.

One last comment - I'm not trying to replicate an actual Chanel jacket completely, I just really like the lines of the pattern.

Finally - some photos!

blue mooney
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blue mooney
Intermediate
TX USA
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Date: 8/19/12 10:50 AM

This is a great pattern that you've chosen. I've made it twice and and am getting ready to cut out a third one.

There is a lot of satisfaction in making a pattern or piece of fabric do your bidding, whatever it is.

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

Restart06
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Restart06
Intermediate
USA
Member since 10/29/06
Posts: 2343
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 8/19/12 11:34 AM

rmusic1, very nice jacket. It is coming along well. Your fabric is nice and it is good to see it made in something other than a boucle or tweed. You will enjoy it when you finish!

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There is no easy way! quote from my Grandfather
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