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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Waist Stay for Empire wedding dress ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Waist Stay for Empire wedding dress
readers500
readers500
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 6/12/09
Posts: 13
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Date: 8/14/12 1:34 AM

I am making our daughter's wedding dress, and am new to boning and waist stays. The pattern I have made is an strapless empire dress with a pleated tulle overskirt. I have read Susan Khalje's book and have Kenneth King's book on the way plus have read innumerable blog posts so feel I have a pretty good understanding of the options for boning, but the waist stay is my bugaboo.

The bodice angles upward in front so is above her waist, but sweeps down to end at center back below her waist. Granted I've been burning the midnight oil, but I do feel a bit thick because I can't picture how to make this work. I can't find any pics of an empire dress with a waist stay that is above the waist, nor does Susan's book have any strapless gowns that don't attach the skirt at the waist itself. So, help, please. Should I lengthen the bodice to the waist in the front, or just attach the waist stay a parallel line at the empire level?

Geep
Geep
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 1/23/09
Posts: 18
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Date: 8/14/12 6:49 AM

My understanding is that the waist stay support the bodice and stops it slipping down, so by definition it has to be at the narrowest point - the waist.
If you want to put a waist stay in to support a strapless empire line dress, you'd have to extend the bodice down to the waist (on the inside where its not seen of course).
Hope that helps!

readers500
readers500
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 6/12/09
Posts: 13
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Date: 8/14/12 9:24 AM

Thanks-it does help! After reading and playing a bit more, I think I'll take your words to heart and make a separate corselet that goes to the waist and is attached to the dress at the top.

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 8/9/11
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Date: 8/15/12 1:18 AM

I just did something like this for my daughter although the back was still 3" above her waist so the waist stay wasn't an issue. Something closer to a corset might give you the support you need even though the dress drops to low for a waist stay. I did learn that you can make the thing to tight. DD gained a bit between the final corselett fitting and the wedding so it wasn't as comfortable as it should have been.

tmnewsom
tmnewsom
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 3/23/13
Posts: 1
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In reply to readers500 <<


Date: 3/24/13 5:41 AM

Hi,
I know you made your DD wedding dress almost 2 years ago but how did you resolve the waist stay issue. I am making my DD prom dress. It also is a strapless, empire waist with an inverted V bodice dress. I am not sure where to put the waist stay. Any advice? I can email a picture so you can see the dress. Thank you.

carry
carry
Member since 10/26/07
Posts: 304
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Date: 4/9/13 6:51 PM

I did a true empire bodice awhile back,there was no way to attach a waist stay without it showing under the sweep of satin that went over the wearers waist.I had so many layers attached at the empire line I just didn't want another thickness attached at that line. So I didn't do a waist stay.I boned the front and back of the upper bodice underlining and also the lining in a few places.So it was as tightly fitting as a corset -bra.The silk satin was as light as a feather,all the under construction was silk organza and silk crepe so the dress itself was not pulling from its own weight. I have to admit though from sitting,dancing,hugging it was migrating and she was tugging it up a few times.I really felt even if there was a waist stay it might have added to the downward pull because of movement. This is why I am so glad tiny sleeves and straps are replacing the uni-strapless.That's all it takes to keep a bodice in place. Hope this helps

goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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Illinois USA
Member since 7/19/03
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Date: 4/9/13 7:12 PM

The boning in the standard places from the top to the waist as an underlayer is really all that's needed. You can put the boning in a very lightweight lawn or something similar with flannel against the skin.

It will not interfere with outer layers or show at all.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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