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Message Board > Fitting Woes > pattern tracing ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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pattern tracing
Burda tunic
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/15/12 7:40 PM

Hope I'm posting this in the right place. I attempted to sew a jacket several years ago from my BWOF magazine and it was a disaster. I gave up! Well, I got the urge to try a tunic from one of my 2008 magazines. Since BWOF doesn't include seam allowances, when tracing the pattern and you're not sure what size to use and normally I need one size for the shoulders, another for the bust and another for my hips, do you trace the largest size and go from there. I would think it's better for it too be too big than too small. I'm definitely going to do a muslin but I'm not sure how to go about this since I didn't have good luck before.



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Date: 8/15/12 8:28 PM

Measure yourself and use a highlighter for the sizes you need. That way you can save a step on it.

lyndle
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lyndle  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/15/12 8:41 PM

Yes, if you want a smaller size for the shoulders and armscye you will need to do that before you cut your fabric (you can't just take it in as the armhole will be too big). The highlighter method works well for me - I use it on all patterns but especially Burda as those sheets are so confusing!

JeanM

JeanM
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In reply to halleyscomet <<


Date: 8/15/12 8:53 PM

I wouldn't just trace the largest size - but I do find it easier to select the size that works for my shoulders/neck area since I have more difficulty adjusting for that area (no sewing buddy to help, and so it's easier for me to start with that area close to the right size), and do an FBA and widening for waist and hips. YMMV!

To pick a size, I use my high bust measurement (38 inches, which puts me into about a size 16 - USA sizing), and do some flat pattern measuring to double-check what changes I might need to do next.

I start by tracing the from the neck and shoulders down to the bottom of the armscye. What I do next depends on the specific pattern. On knits, I extend the tracing at the bottom of the armscye out to the side line for a size 18 or 20. I usually do an FBA of some sort (unless I'm using a pattern with that adjustment already made for me). I may or may not need to adjust at waist and/or hip level - sometimes I use a pivot/slide technique, sometimes just add some extra seam allowance to that area.

Add seam allowances (I sometimes use wider than necessary seam allowances for waist and hip, and pin-fit - I like having a bit of ease through that area rather than having a tight fit).

I often pin-fit the tracing before cutting fabric - similar to tissue fitting, except I haven't lost my original pattern if I mess it up! I've been tracing everything, for several years now - I'd rather buy more tracing medium than more copies of a pattern.

And when I get to fabric ("muslin" or "real" fabric) - especially on the first time with a pattern, I pin-fit FBA/darts and side seams before committing to a final seam. Transfer adjustments back to the pattern for future reference.

It does take a heap of patience - but if you take your time with the pattern/tissue fitting, the rest will come together.

Let us know how things go!

halleyscomet
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In reply to JeanM <<


Date: 8/15/12 8:56 PM

Thanks everyone! Anxious to work on it tomorrow.

abcameo
abcameo  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/16/12 2:01 AM

I bought my first Burda single issue magazine (July), and when I opened the pages and got a gander at that pattern sheet--OMG!! I really loved the patterns that caught my eye, but I don't know. Extremely daunting to say the least...

Lizz
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In reply to abcameo <<


Date: 8/16/12 8:51 AM

Don't panic! It looks like a horrid mess, but with patience, a highlighter and some good pattern paper you'll be fine . Remember to use the colored numbers in the margins to help find your pieces (I can't remember who posted a tip on this) and trace your size lines with your highlighter before you attempt to trace on your pattern paper.

Burdastyle begins with a challenge but the end results are beautiful!

abcameo
abcameo  Friend of PR
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In reply to Lizz <<


Date: 8/16/12 9:44 AM

Thanks, Lizz:
I was too timid to even open up the sheet. It's still stapled to the mag. When I get the courage (and get through my half-baked pending projects), I'll take a closer look and follow your advice.



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Date: 8/16/12 1:41 PM

When I get my magazines I take the pattern sheet out, cut it in half and then I sew the stapled part back together.

That way I can use them and not feel too bad.

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/16/12 1:49 PM

Burda has pattern measurements in it. I typically trace the comparable sizes that I use in a Big 4 pattern, 48 in the shoulders, 50 in the bust, and 52 in the hips.

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

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