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Forum > Machine Embroidery > Using a milti-position hoop and correct stablizer for burp cloths ( Moderated by Pyrose)

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Using a milti-position hoop and correct stablizer for burp cloths
lcmnichols
lcmnichols
Member since 6/6/12
Posts: 13
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Date: 8/16/12 10:55 AM

Everyone here has been so helpful since I started trying to teach myself machine embroidery. I have 2 questions -- one about using a multi position hoop and another about stablizer -- and am looking for some advice.
1) I used a Sulky lightweight tear away stablizer under a 3-ply cloth diaper and had a lot of trouble with the stitches underneath balling up into little nests. I usually use a Sulky Stiffy medium weight stablizer when I use my 4x4 hoop but Sulky doesn't make the Stiffy in a 12" roll which would be big enough for the 4x6 hoop. I think this problem might have been caused by the stablizer being too thin. Can anyone recommend a good medium weight tear away that comes in a 12" roll? Do you think I would have better sucess if I doubled up on the lightweight stablizer? Maybe the problem is not the stablizer at all... Any idea what else could cause the thread to knot so bad under the dsesign? Tension was set on 4 which has worked fine when I work on diapers using the 4x4 hoop.

2) A am trying to use a milti position 4x6 hoop for the first time to embroider a burb cloth. I am trying to do the design in one section and move it to do the name underneath. My machine is restricted to a 4x4 embroidery field. I started with doing the name first and got it positioned right where wanted it, but then when I tried to move it up to do the design I couldn't get it in the right place without having to rehoop. I did the name in the bottom section of the hoop. Using the middle section for the design placed it too close to the name and using the top section placed it to far away from the name. Any advice on using a milti position hoop would be appreciated.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3126
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In reply to lcmnichols <<


Date: 8/16/12 3:52 PM

As to your second question: I have a 4 x 4 stitching area also and often use the multi-position hoop. I would do the lettering in the lower position and as close to the bottom of the hoop as possible. If your lettering and/or the design is too large, you may need to re-hoop. Your machine should allow you to do what I call an outline preview which will show what area the design will cover.

The machine will tell you the size of the designs so you can plan this on paper. You may need to make either the lettering or the desgin, or both, smaller in order to get it to be placed just right. You also try doing the design first, then the lettering. It does take some pre-planning and sometimes Plan B will have to be used. Um, sometimes Plan C.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to lcmnichols <<


Date: 8/16/12 4:21 PM

I'd like to add to GlButterfly's great comments (she and I have the same machine). Did you do a trial over your design to see where the next item was going to land when you moved up on the post? Not sure what machine you have but mine has a Trial button which shows me the area where it's going to stitch; kind of like drawing with the needle. It moves the hoop through the design without stitching it. Also, you should have a grid that lays on top of your hoop to size up where your overall design is going to be. This grid gives visual clues as to the center of the design, and whether or not it will be off center, and is great for using your Trial button.

I move down the posts because it's easier to see in front of the needle than behind it. You should also be able to adjust the position of the name; either close to or far away from the design. Some machines, like mine, have an up arrow button on the screen to do this.

As to the looping, I don't think it's your stabilizer as I've used thin stabilizer on thick towels. Nesting is usually due to a bobbin issue or the thread on top being too loose. Sometimes I have to move my tension to 5, even though it worked fine before. Also, make sure you have the upper thread clicked into the takeup lever properly. That's the little bar with the eyelet on it on the upper part of the machine. Too many times, on my embroidery machine as well as on my sewing machines, I don't get the thread clicked into place and it will cause this same problem.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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katlew03
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Date: 8/16/12 4:57 PM

I just finished 6 burp cloths on tri-fold diapers using lt. weight tear-away without any problems. The designs were quite dense--too dense to use on the onesies I was planning. The backs looked great. I don't know about your tensions because my machine sets them automatically. Here are the stitch counts for the designs I made. I was having trouble with my thread cutter and took in my machine and my dealer said the designs were very heavy when she embroidered them to check on another problem. I did designs 2, 8, and 12. The only problem I have is with certain brands of thread breaking easier than others.

heavy designs

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Sewn in 2012: 176.212 yds.
2013 Goal: 400 yds (again)
Total sewn in 2013 -- 225.848 yds.
Total yards in inventory 1/1/14 -- 1752.5
Goal for 2014 -- 400 yards (for the third time)

Machines: Designer Diamond, #1+, H Class 100Q, and Viking 400 Serger: 936

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3126
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 8/16/12 7:40 PM

Haha, yes, the Trial button. I couldn't think of that name so wrote "an outline preview". (Wanted to clarifiy that so as not to confuse the original poster). Sometimes I need to adjust, then use the Trail button several times before the design is in the location I want.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

sew2006
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sew2006
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Ontario CANADA
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In reply to lcmnichols <<


Date: 8/16/12 8:52 PM

If your designs came with real size templates print that out on paper to use as placement. Embroider the name first, check placement of design with template. Alternative, find software that allows you to combine and save designs for the multi-hoop and your machine. If you tell us make and model suggestions can be made too. Loops under fabric sound like tension issues, sometimes a second piece of stabilizer will help prevent puckers. For small loops on top of embroidery change a needle, a size 14 embroidery. Make sure needle is all the way up in machine too. Some lower quality threads cause their own problems as do overly dense designs.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

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