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Forum > Fitting Woes > Hollow chest v straight neckline ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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Hollow chest v straight neckline
dollydolittle
dollydolittle
Member since 2/15/09
Posts: 85
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Date: 8/19/12 4:45 AM

I'm making McCalls 6554 and am on my second bodice muslin.

I have made various fitting alterations and it is looking good except that my hollow chest means the straight neckline gapes.

Tbh I didn't think my chest was that hollow, I've not had any problems that a little ease stitching couldn't cure in the past, but it definitely isn't that the dress is too wide across the shoulders or bodice, there really isn't any spare fabric anywhere else, so it must be me!

Does anyone know how I could fix this without having to change the neckline shape?

McCalls 6554
-- Edited on 8/19/12 4:46 AM --
-- Edited on 8/19/12 4:48 AM --
Tizmehr
Tizmehr
Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/21/11
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Date: 8/19/12 8:02 AM

The pattern alteration for hollow chest looks like you've sewn a long horizontal double ended dart in the pattern. Pinching out the excess fabric on the muslin to see how big of a 'dart' you need to take.
dollydolittle
dollydolittle
Member since 2/15/09
Posts: 85
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In reply to Tizmehr

Date: 8/19/12 8:25 AM

My pattern fitting book shows the 'dart' going into the armscye, but it doesn't show it on a square neckline. I searched on here and read through this thread with posts about the same problem and tried pinching out a horizontal dart from the vertical edge of the square neckline to the armscye, but it doesn't solve it and I don't quite understand the solution referred to in the last post.

I don't have anyone to take a photo at the moment so sorry for the wordy description.
Wino
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Wino
Pennsylvania USA
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Date: 8/19/12 9:42 AM

The alteration described will take out excess fabric between the bust and shoulder. This is a common fix for the flat chested as most of our bust fullness is not at the top of the bust, resulting in a hollow chest. You may instead need to take a small vertical dart in the center and retrue the straight neckline. As you are fitting a muslin it will be easy to try. Good luck!

------
wino

stirwatersblue
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Date: 8/20/12 8:32 AM

I'm with Wino on this--pinch out a vertical dart ON THE MUSLIN/PATTERN--but I would do two, right over near the straps. Take off the muslin and pin those darts down really well, and then trace a new pattern piece *as if they weren't there.* Don't sew the darts in the finished garment--just remove the excess from the pattern. This shouldn't affect the shape of the neckline that much; it *usually* results in a neckline that's slightly squarer anyway.

------
~Gem in the prairie

dollydolittle
dollydolittle
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In reply to stirwatersblue

Date: 8/22/12 11:29 AM

Thanks for that, I compromised by doing one at a 45 degree angle from the very corner of the square neckline into the armscye. It looks like it will be OK with some interfacing. Couldn't do the vertical as there was no spare fabric around my bust for once, so when I pinched the fabric out it resulted in two very short fat 'darts' which I couldn't replicate on a flat pattern piece.

I now have a new dilemma, I want to add a lining to the skirt, but it has a single large box pleat at the front. Anyone know what I should do about this pleat when I cut my lining?

The waistline is raised so I don't want extra bulk from the waist seam, and I can't think how to do it, maybe it isn't possible?
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