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Forum > Fitting Woes > Woven pullover shirt hard to get on and off--why? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Woven pullover shirt hard to get on and off--why?
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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KS USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3214
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Date: 8/20/12 0:43 AM

I've just sewn (for myself) a Tru-Grid mockup of McCall's 4059 shirt View A:



In a size Small. The fit is generally good, but it was really hard to pull on over my head (and, to a lesser degree, off). I've had this happen in RTW, but I have no idea what causes it--particularly in a garment that's not at all fitted--so I have no idea how to correct it. It feels fine once it's on, but I don't want to have to wrestle it on and off.

I *think* the issue is somewhere in the seam at the bottom of the yoke, which makes up part of the armscye. I am considering lengthening the yoke for more bust coverage; how will this affect things?

(When I wear this, everything but the upper chest and sleeves will be hidden beneath a snug bodice, like this, so if alterations make things *look* a teensy bit wonky, that's less important than achieving a good fit. :))

I made the View B shirt for my DH (in an XL), and when I asked him, he thought for a minute and said that his version "may be a bit" hard to get on/off, so I think the issue might be in the draft?

Help?

Thanks!!

------
~Gem in the prairie

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 8/20/12 10:17 AM

If you continue the front slit even past the the front shirt yoke sean and down into the body of the shirt front a bit, it should make it a lot more easy to get on and off. To do that, I would just cut the center front downwards below the yoke, and probably just face it there. I guess you could bind it there instead, but it would probably show a bit more.

If you actually lengthened the yoke, that could make the center front opening, more open and long there if you wanted that, but I think it might even make it the shirt as a whole, less flexible to struggle into and tighter to the body too. Also might effect sleeve and arm movement.

Or if it was not an issue of pulling it over your head and chest so much, as getting your arms trapped in there, before being able to get them into the sleeves and just needing more room there instead, you could even add a gusset as an insert just into the underarm seams and side seams. Probably just depends on where it needs the extra leeway to get it on and off.

Annie- oh
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Annie- oh
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Date: 8/20/12 3:30 PM

If the armscythe is deeper, with the sleeve also modified the same to fit the new depth, the on/off fit usually improves a lot. The yoke could stay where it is without needing to modify it.

Do you happen to have any jackets, especially summer weight, that might have a high armscythe versus one with a lower? You can see the difference there.

What a gorgeous outfit, keep it up,yes, I think it's the draft that might be easy to adjust.
-- Edited on 8/20/12 3:31 PM --

------
I try all things. I achieve what I can. "Moby Dick"

We stand here confronted by insurmountable opportinities. Pogo

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 8/21/12 12:31 PM

Thanks, you both! I guess I'll just start tweaking things and see what helps...?

Underarm gussets were actually the norm in period shirts/chemises for centuries... but one of the reasons I thought I liked this pattern was that it DIDN'T have them! ;)

And the idea of continuing the slit down below the yoke seam kind of makes perfect sense to me, except that the yoke is faced/lined so that the raw edges of that slit are fully enclosed, reinforcing the bottom of the slit, which is prone to tearing.

I wonder if it might be easiest to try bumping up to a medium in the yoke, which would give me a little extra length and width...?

------
~Gem in the prairie

Annie- oh
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Annie- oh
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Date: 8/21/12 7:49 PM

Let us know what you do - this is how we learn - and keep having fun.

------
I try all things. I achieve what I can. "Moby Dick"

We stand here confronted by insurmountable opportinities. Pogo

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