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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Patten Adjustment Help Needed

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Patten Adjustment Help Needed
Adjusting gap at back of armhole
stitchfancy2
stitchfancy2
Member since 2/28/12
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Subject: Pattern Adjustment Help Needed Date: 8/20/12 3:16 PM

I am working with Butterick Fitting Pattern 6092. Right now I am only doing the bodice and I want to keep it sleeveless(sp?). I am also using the Swedish Tracing Paper for my try on stitchout instead of muslin.

I've got most of the adjustments made - there weren't many as the pattern mesurements were for the mostpart pretty close to my own.

Here's the problem, I have gaposus at the back of the armhole about midway between the top and the bottom and not quite sure how to fix it so that I can get a good fitting sleeveless bodice. I do have a rounded upper back and my shoulders slope forward abit.

I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thanks

stitchfancy


-- Edited on 8/20/12 3:22 PM --

jannw
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jannw  Friend of PR
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In reply to stitchfancy2 <<


Date: 8/20/12 3:29 PM

As soon as I started doing the rounded back adjustment, that gap disappeared! Just like magic!

I usually use the Palmer/Pletsch method and slash from the centerback across, almost to the armsyce. I then raise the tissue the proper amount and tape it. To straighten the CB line, I then add darts on each side or run a line of gather along the back neckline. This latter seems to work the best with knits or a smaller adjustment.

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Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

Lena Merrin
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 8/20/12 7:07 PM

The easiest way is to pinch the excess and form a dart at the armscye, then rotate this dart up to the back shoulder seam.

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MNBarb
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Date: 8/21/12 12:21 PM

I do exactly what Lena described. Sorry I can't find a photo to make it even clearer but in Fit for Real People it's called a "slightly rounded back adjustment".

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Nancy K
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In reply to stitchfancy2 <<


Date: 8/21/12 1:29 PM

You need to add shoulder darts and probably more room in the upper back cutting from cb to armhole seam. This will mean that you will have a slightly rounded upper cb seam.

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Sewing Princess
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In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 2/12/13 5:40 AM

I did exactly as you suggested. However I now have an extra bulging at the shoulder dart. The dart length is now 3 inches. See pictures.
Any suggestions on how to improve it? Or shall I start from scratch by angling the armscye dart differently before rotating it?

Picture on Flickr
-- Edited on 2/12/13 5:42 AM --

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 2/12/13 1:20 PM

It seems to me that your dart is "too much in comparison to a possibility its length. Is it a possibility to ease in part of the shoulder in the back and to have the rest in a dart that can be made then less wide?

Fictionfan
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Date: 2/12/13 7:44 PM

I see that you are doing the craftsy class with Lynda Maynard. The dress pattern she chose has sleeves. You will need extra ease at the armhole for the sleeve that you wouldn't need for a sleeveless bodice, so unless you are fitting this bodice as for a sleeveless garment, you may be overfitting the armscye. You should leave the armhole adjustment for when you add the sleeve, because things may change with the weight of the sleeve, or you may need to move the seam line to be where it needs to be for you, instead of where is it drafted to be for the imaginary woman of that so-called standard size. Even if you want this dress to be sleeveless, you should still check out what the sleeve addition does to how the bodice fits.

One thing I noticed in your photo is the shoulder seam does not seem to be over your shoulder, but looks to be a bit over your upper back. I think you need a forward shoulder adjustment. This should not change the seam line length of the armhole, just angles the seamline from the from the back toward the front a bit so the seam is centered over the shoulder. This will make a huge difference in how the sleeve hangs and how comfortable the sleeve is to wear.

Great job so far! I am not familiar with that pattern. Is that a fitting pattern or did I read the number wrong? Does it have advice for altering the pattern in a way that wasn't mentioned yet? Just curious.
-- Edited on 2/12/13 7:47 PM --

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Fictionfan

Elona
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In reply to Sewing Princess <<


Date: 2/12/13 9:05 PM

You have now got a very, very nice fit!

In my experience, the bubble at the end of your dart is due to too abrupt a taper to the point. When you stitch a dart, the last 3-5 stitches should be right on the fold, catching one teensy thread there--and then you walk the machine off the fold.

I hand-tie the threads at the end of the dart myself, taking great care not to snug the threads up tightly at that point (which would cause a slight gather or pucker that no one needs).

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