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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Armani Dress... how did he do that?

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Armani Dress... how did he do that?
lauraborealis
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 8/21/12 1:29 PM

The description for this dress says layered skirt... do you suppose there's a seam hidden underneath the belt? It's so bulk-free and fluid (watch the video) I find it hard to believe, but I can't figure out how else it would be done!

Any pattern suggestions?



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Date: 8/21/12 1:38 PM

Looks like the bodice/overskirt/flounce/belt is all one piece, since it looks like the belt is folded at the top and bottom and gathered at the hip.

The underskirt may be attached to the area that is folded at the top or bottom to hide it. Looks like they also have some tacking vertically going on in the belt area, too.

wendyrb
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In reply to lauraborealis <<


Date: 8/21/12 1:52 PM

I looked closely at the photos with magnification. The grain line at the CF above the belt looks fairly straight across and below on the skirt the grain changes noticeably. For that to happen, there must be a seam under the belt . Also, to my eye, the belt looks like it is attached to the dress- there are some indents from the top edge to the bottom. That would cover the seam and make sense as a transition from the bodice to the skirt. The description says belt detail, not a separate belt- so it's likely joined. Plus the side drape looks like it flows out from underneath the belt. If the waterfall is a flounce spiral shape, it might only fit on the cloth with a horizontal hip seam at the belt line. The waterfall could be done another way, so that's not conclusive.

I'd love to hear if anyone else can come up with another way for this to be made. Thanks for sharing the beautiful dress. I'm a big Armani fan.

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Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

lauraborealis
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Date: 8/21/12 2:11 PM

Could the outer skirt/flounce/belt be a single separate piece that's attached to the main dress at the beltline (the belt being formed by folds)?

nancy2001
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In reply to lauraborealis <<


Date: 8/21/12 2:27 PM

This is my guesss about what's going on. There are only two pieces of fabric. The top is cut on the straight of grain and ends just below the seam where the "belt" lies. The overlay/skirt is one piece of fabric cut on the bias. This overlay/skirt is double layered, folded over at the top and stitched to simulate a belt. The waterfall ruffle is formed by the two layers of the overlay/skirt.

If you'd like to sew something similar, the best thing to do would be to drape the skirt on a dress form by playing around with an inexpensive, highly fluid knit fabric.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

nancy2001
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In reply to lauraborealis <<


Date: 8/21/12 2:38 PM

Theoretically the dress could have been put together as you suggest with the outer skirt as a separate piece attached to the main dress, but I don't believe that it was. The top is one unit, and the skirt, "belt, overlay, and waterfall ruffle is the other unit.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

lauraborealis
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Date: 9/18/12 5:26 PM

I finally got some jersey to play with the ideas above. Will report my findings.

But here's a new puzzle... a Valentino tee with leather roses. The description says rayon jersey. My question is: How does the tee support the weight of the leather corsage? I made a StyleArc Creative Kate with a fabric rose to wear on it, and wasn't able to keep the fabric from flopping over where the rose is attached.
-- Edited on 9/18/12 5:27 PM --

nancy2001
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In reply to lauraborealis <<


Date: 9/18/12 5:52 PM

Reinforce the fabric invisibly using another type of interfaced fabric on the inside of the garment. In this way, the flowers won't be dangling from flimsy jersey but will be anchored to a fabric with more substance and body. Start the reinforcement at the shoulder (so it can bear the weight of the flowers) and make the reinforced area large enough to cover the corsage.

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EleanorSews
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In reply to lauraborealis <<


Date: 9/18/12 7:34 PM

It reminds me of OOP Vogue pattern 1953, a Tom and Linda Platt design.

The dress was made in georgette and is two layers, all cut on the bias. That is worn over a charmeuse slip.

ETA: removed non-working link; computer issues tonight. I was not able to find an image of this pattern which dates back to the mid to late 1990s. It was my MOB dress.
-- Edited on 9/18/12 7:36 PM --

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MaryDB
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In reply to EleanorSews <<


Date: 9/18/12 9:10 PM

Here's that pattern for sale on Etsy. Yes! very close, good memory.

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