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Drafting Questions
Removing darts from pants.
BeeJ
BeeJ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 1/30/06
Posts: 137
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Date: 8/21/12 9:50 PM

I have a pants sloper for woven fabrics & want to make a pair of knit pants instead. The sloper has two darts in the front and 4 in the back but I do not want these darts in the knit pants. Do the darts have to be relocated & if so how can I accomplish that? Then would I also reduce the sides & inseams for using a knit fabric? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Elcue
Elcue  Friend of PR
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Member since 6/13/12
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In reply to BeeJ <<


Date: 8/22/12 10:52 AM

The dart width can be eased in to the waistline at the dart region or distributed evenly across the waist as gathers. I've made knit pants without changing the width at the side seams and have been very happy with them. That's where a muslin in similar knit fabric would help you decide what you like.

If you do reduce the side seam of the leg you want to equally reduce the inseam.

BeeJ
BeeJ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 1/30/06
Posts: 137
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In reply to Elcue <<


Date: 8/22/12 8:12 PM

I had already tried to ease in the darts but they are fairly large. I wanted to put a 2" elastic waistband on like those on yoga pants, and not like you would make with a casing for pull on pants. Is it possible to transfer the darts to the side seams & front & back center seams? The other thought I had was to slice through the darts down to the hem & just close up the darts but I wasn't sure if it could be done this way. I've made 2 muslins already & didn't want to try a third time until I resolved this dart question as I'm almost out of fabric. Thanks for your suggestion.

Elcue
Elcue  Friend of PR
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Member since 6/13/12
Posts: 193
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In reply to BeeJ <<


Date: 8/22/12 8:32 PM

My first idea is to just close the dart on the pattern piece and cut the fabric out. Some stretchy fabric is very forgiving.

I've been taught that you can rotate a waist dart over to the side seam but I've never tried it. I think it is usally hidden in a pocket detail or a yoke.

Cutting through the dart to the hem is a great solution if you don't mind having a seam down the front of the leg. In that same vein, you could just stitch the dart closed and trim away bulk of the dart fabric.

Elcue
Elcue  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 6/13/12
Posts: 193
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Date: 8/22/12 8:47 PM

Colette has a tutorial that might help.

http://www.coletterie.com/sewalongs/clover-sewalong-full-or-flat-belly-adjustment

The full belly adjustment might be exactly what you want. It essentially is moving the dart to the center front and center back seam.



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