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Darts - how to sew them
Seam to point; or Point to seam?
Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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Date: 8/23/12 5:19 PM

I am a big fan of whatever works but...is there a correct way of sewing darts?? It seems to me that I have always sewn them from the dart point to the seam. Although in pants, I sort of re-call doing the opposite (it has been eons since I have made pants.) No idea why.

I have looked at some tutorials and some sew from the point to the seam, some from the seam to the point.

It seems to me as well that I like to press my bust dart up, again no idea why.

What do you do and why?

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 8/23/12 5:25 PM

I look forward to seeing how the advanced PR members do theirs.

I mark the point with a pin (with a red head just to keep me straight - to me, red means "stop" so it's a good ending point. I sew seam to point.

I mark the legs of the dart with a tiny clip. That way I can fold the dart so that the two clips match and smooth out the fold to the red pin.

When it's time to sew I pull out a length of thread about six inches longer than the dart. I put the needle in the fabric on the seam line at the seam end and pull the thread out to the red pin right at the edge of the fold. I lower the presser foot and sew using that thread as a guide.

It seams to work well but again I keep learning amazing tips here from people who are making amazing clothes!

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Mary


Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 8/23/12 6:28 PM

I usually mark the dart legs by clipping the fabrc, then fold the dart and press it. Then I stitch from edge to tip, making sure I put a stitch or two parallel to the fold at the tip (depending on the type of the fabric of course) to avoid the pointy look.

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Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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Date: 8/23/12 7:48 PM

Always, always, always from the seam to the point. Why? I don't remember. Let me look it up...

Pants for Real People:
For a perfect dart without tying threads, stitch toward the point, change to a short stitch length for the last 1/2" - 3/4". The last five stitches should just catch a fiber of fabric along the fold. Stitch off the edge. Lift the presser foot and pull dart toward you and stitch in the dart fold to anchor the threads.

Threads | Teach Yourself to Sew, Season 1: How to Sew a Dart.
"It usually works best to start at the seamline. Match the dart legs at the edge and fold the fabric through the dart point. Then, secure with several pins. Place a pin across the point so that you'll know when to stop stitching. As you can see here, all you have to do is follow the marked line when you're sewing to make a perfect dart. ... At this point, all of the darts sew together the same way. Position the seam edge under the presser foot. Change to a short stitch length for the last 1/2" - 3/4". Sew a few stitches right on the edge and then stop. Reverse at the end, inside the dart."

Schaefer doesn't specify.

Khalje always starts at the wider end.

Hope that helps. :)


-- Edited on 8/23/12 10:03 PM --

Nancy K
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Date: 8/23/12 8:30 PM

I've seen people who sew from the point to the wide end, and I did this myself for awhile when I was having trouble sewing a good dart. But I found a better way. I too make a clip, I mark the dart and I make sure that the sewing line is perpendicular to me, not the fold line, which is on an angle. This ensures that I sew off the point straight. I then lift the needle and presser foot and maybe a few stitches back from the end I sew 2 or 3 stitches to secure the dart.

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Elcue
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Date: 8/23/12 8:31 PM

I recently viewed a DVD from Threads Magazine, "Threads Industry Insider Techniques" in which Louise Cutting demonstrated a dart sewing technique in which she stitched from the seam through the dart point and onto a small scrap of fabric in which she backtacked and left permanently attatched to support the dart end.

Canadian Jane
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Canadian Jane
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Date: 8/23/12 11:16 PM

Sounds like the preferred/better method is start at the seam and work towards the point.

Still doesn't say WHY... but I think it is because you have more options for dealing with point itself that gives a better result.

I am interested in trying to slightly curve the line as well - boat darts this might be called. Apparently for full busted women in particular this gives a nicer looking dart.

Anyone done this?

Some really great tips here. Thanks!!

NhiHuynh
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Date: 8/23/12 11:39 PM

I sew point to side seam. That way I always get a nice point exactly where I need it. If I stray a little at the seams it's not noticeable.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

PattyE
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Date: 8/23/12 11:50 PM

I was always told to sew seam to dart, stitch right off at the point and hand tie the thread ends; to never do any reverse stitches at the point of a dart. Ending at the point allows you to sew a couple stitches right at the fold thereby making a very smooth point end. Works well for me but everyone has their favorite technique.

Elcue
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In reply to Canadian Jane <<


Date: 8/24/12 9:10 AM

I was taught that horizontal darts and seams are pressed downward to avoid accumulation of lint and other bits.

Also, stitch perpendicular from the cut edge to the seam line and then pivot at the dart, stitching toward the point.

It is better to fall short of the point than to stitch past it.

Press darts on a ham to mimic the body shaping.


-- Edited on 8/24/12 9:11 AM --

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