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Forum > Fitting Woes > Raising the Armscyce ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Raising the Armscyce
will this work?
jannw
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jannw
Washington USA
Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8552
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 8/23/12 7:59 PM

While looking at the pattern piece of a top I just finished, I realized that the apex is marked on level with the bottom of the armscyce.
On me, the the bottom of the armsyce comes way below my bust. My apex point lies about the midpoint of the sleeve.

I need to raise it by about 1.5". Will it work if I fold the pattern in the middle of the armsyce, both front and back, add in that length at the lengthen/shorten line and take out the same amount from the sleeve? Is there a better way to do this?






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2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

Nancy K
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Nancy K
Member since 12/28/04
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In reply to jannw <<


Date: 8/23/12 8:24 PM

Yes it would work.

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elizajo
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elizajo  Friend of PR
Louisiana USA
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Date: 8/23/12 11:27 PM

I am high busted and need to raise bust darts on most patterns. I found that the best alteration for me is to draw a rectangle around the dart, cut the rectangle out, and move it up. Then I fill in the resulting open area below with tissue paper.

I also have square-ish shoulders, which is typical for the high-busted. If the shoulder looks sloped at too much of an angle I similarly cut the armhole out and raise it up.

I struggled with redrawing bust darts until someone showed me this alteration.

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Elizabeth

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
California USA
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Date: 8/24/12 3:04 PM

Yes. The way you're describing will narrow the armhole, whereas Elizajo's will just move the bust dart/point and leave the armhole alone. Do whichever one works better for your figure.

I do the opposite because I"m tall and have wide upper arms - I almost always split apart commercial patterns in the armscye and add an inch of length (and on the sleeves). There's a good description of shortening or lengthening like this in Fast Fit.

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jannw
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jannw
Washington USA
Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8552
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to elizajo <<


Date: 8/24/12 3:28 PM

I do the same on the darts, however this pattern has no darts. Since the apex is level with the bottom of the sleeve opening, that confused me. It's quite a large sleeve opening anyway, so shortening it shouldn't present a problem.. I'm still trying to figure out what happened during the sewing, since I did a quick tissue fit and it looked like the apex was in the proper spot then.

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

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