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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Moving a zipper to the side on a pair of pants ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Moving a zipper to the side on a pair of pants
But the waistband pattern piece is contoured
marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 2202
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Date: 8/25/12 12:28 PM

Am I about to make a big mistake?

I relocated the zipper on the muslin and was happy with that result. I didn't bother to do the waistband though.

I'm trying to think this through. I can cut the waistband on the fold so it will be one piece. I'll need to figure out how much was meant for an underlap.

But I'm wondering if I'll have any regrets if I just cut the whole thing in one straight piece. It's a really narrow waistband if that makes any difference.

I think I'm answering my own question as I type this out. I need to finish that muslin don't I?

------
Mary
http://checkmatesystem.com

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 1370
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 8/25/12 1:27 PM

Waistbands are either a straight piece (cut lengthwise on grain longwise parallel to the selvage) or contour. I use to make alot of pants with a side zip and a straight waistband. I like contour waistbands better now as they fit me better. They are easy to adjust to the side as they are usually a front piece/back piece with side seams to match the pants. As far as how much to leave that is a matter of preference; I prefer about a 1" overlap and I use a hook and eye. A buttonhole would need a little longer overlap. If you like the look and where your pants sit on your waistline, you could make a facing that matches the waistline of your pants and fold it under and skip a waistband.

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 2202
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In reply to Marie367 <<


Date: 8/25/12 1:36 PM

Thanks Marie. A facing is a great option.

One thing I'm not loving about Burda Magazine is that you can't see where the designer intended the waistline to fall. The technical drawings aren't on the body and the magazine shots are highly stylized. For my pattern, the model is wearing a blouse that falls to the hips!

I guess that's the great thing about sewing; we get to decide what looks best for us.

I also realized I'm overthinking how moving the opening to the side is going to affect the waistband. I keep forgetting that these Burdas don't have seam allowances. I get to decide where to put them! The waist center is clearly marked so that helps too.

------
Mary
http://checkmatesystem.com

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 1370
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 8/25/12 10:29 PM

You are welcome. I don't like RTW pants with a facing-I have a waist/hip ratio that doesn't match RTW pants so often need a belt but I know many people do. I have worked out fit with a Burda pattern for pants but have not worked with the Burda Magazine patterns so can't advice about that. Yes, I agree with you that the great thing about sewing is that we are in charge and once we get something worked out-well there is nothing better! Please do a review when you finish these or at least post a picture. Good luck finishing them!

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