Online Sewing Class: Pattern Work
SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > HotPatterns Sunshine Top ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
HotPatterns Sunshine Top
Horizontal wrinkles at armpit
HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 933
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



Date: 8/26/12 11:23 PM

I have read so many positive reviews of this pattern that I decided to try it. I made a test version out of some low-grade polyester stuff, and I liked the general effect, especially the neckline, but there were some horizontal wrinkles from the side of the neckline going into the armpit that were really ugly. I say "were" because I took it apart thinking I could try to alter it by shortening above the bust (I am very short in that area -- my back length is about 15"), but now I'm not sure that's going to work.

I looked at some of the reviews, and I noticed that several larger busted people had the same issue, though not quite as severe.

I traced out a size 16 in the shoulders and 18 elsewhere. I am a C cup.

Any suggestions? Do I just need to cut a larger size at the bust? TIA
misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/3/06
Posts: 1767
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



In reply to HarrietHomeowner

Date: 8/27/12 4:24 AM

Harriet, I'm short above the bust and much bigger than a C cup The unaltered pattern had a neckline so low, half my bra was showing, and I'm very low busted!! I used the yoke piece that matched my high bust measurement and shortened it at the shoulder by a few inches. For the fba, I added to the centre front of the body piece which increased the gathers that I distributed evenly across the yoke. I also altered the sleeve cap height, but don't remember if I folded it out or took some off the top, changing the shape a little (which I sometimes do on high, narrow sleeve caps). It took a few muslins to get right, but I got there eventually.

------
chris

Melbourne

KathySews
star
KathySews  Friend of PR
Michigan USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 4240
Skill: Intermediate
Body Type:
Send Message

      



In reply to misschris

Date: 8/27/12 7:59 AM

I will give your alterations a try. I have the same problem, the top is just way too low to be comfortable. I was worried that shortening the yoke would cause the rest of the top not to fit correctly
HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 933
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



Date: 8/27/12 8:10 AM

The top did fit in the shoulders and covered my bra and did not gape, though it was maybe a little low. I was mostly puzzled by the way the gathers at either side of the neckline pulled to the side, like there was not enough room for my bust. Is it a question of arranging the gathers differently, or should I add some fabric at center front? I could try inserting some fabric to the muslin there to see if that solves the problem.
misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/3/06
Posts: 1767
Send Message

      



In reply to HarrietHomeowner

Date: 8/27/12 5:32 PM

Quote:
Is it a question of arranging the gathers differently, or should I add some fabric at center front?


A little of both, perhaps? If you've got fabric pulling across the front, then maybe you need to add to the width. I think the best placement of the gathers is dependent on your shape. Is your bust fullness straight out in the front or spread more across as width? It's another of those things that needs tweaking as you go.

------
chris

Melbourne

diane s
star
diane s
Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 5144
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



Date: 8/28/12 10:59 AM

I made the similar KwikSew pattern, made a standard fba,(5/8") closed and rotated the dart into the neckline gathers. It would have fit OK without it, but now it's nice and smooth over the bust and the gathers hang and straight.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 933
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



In reply to diane s

Date: 8/28/12 11:16 AM

Maybe I'll have to try an FBA. I was hoping that with a knit it wouldn't be necessary, and that HP is sized for a fuller bust anyway, but I guess not.
michellep74
starstarstar
michellep74  Friend of PR
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
Posts: 3424
Skill: Intermediate
Body Type:
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



Date: 8/28/12 12:01 PM

I shortened the yoke in mine and scooped out the armscye a touch. I've made this pattern a bunch of times. I get those horizontal wrinkles when I use a less drape fabric, so fabric choice might play a factor.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 933
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



In reply to michellep74

Date: 8/28/12 1:09 PM

Michelle, how exactly did you shorten the yoke? Did you take the length off the top of the shoulder or somewhere else?
michellep74
starstarstar
michellep74  Friend of PR
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
Posts: 3424
Skill: Intermediate
Body Type:
Send Message

      



In reply to HarrietHomeowner

Date: 8/28/12 1:59 PM

Quote: HarrietHomeowner
Michelle, how exactly did you shorten the yoke? Did you take the length off the top of the shoulder or somewhere else?

I made a small tuck halfway between the shoulder seam and the bottom. I made the same tuck in the bodice pattern piece.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> HotPatterns Sunshine Top

Merchants on PR

Just Make it Sew


Quality Fashion Fabrics
Deals!

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

O! Jolly! Shop


Sweater Knit Fabrics
Web site

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Fun with Fitting - PANTS
Fun with Fitting - PANTS

Class Details

Online Class
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Class Details

Laughing Moon Mercantile 109

photo
by: usonian

Review
New Look 6097

photo
by: dinagideon

Review
You Sew Girl Kids Beret Pattern

You Sew Girl Kids Beret Pattern

Pattern Details
Sewn Square One Small Change Pattern

Sewn Square One Small Change Pattern

Pattern Details

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2016 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.