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HotPatterns Sunshine Top
Horizontal wrinkles at armpit
HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/26/12 11:23 PM

I have read so many positive reviews of this pattern that I decided to try it. I made a test version out of some low-grade polyester stuff, and I liked the general effect, especially the neckline, but there were some horizontal wrinkles from the side of the neckline going into the armpit that were really ugly. I say "were" because I took it apart thinking I could try to alter it by shortening above the bust (I am very short in that area -- my back length is about 15"), but now I'm not sure that's going to work.

I looked at some of the reviews, and I noticed that several larger busted people had the same issue, though not quite as severe.

I traced out a size 16 in the shoulders and 18 elsewhere. I am a C cup.

Any suggestions? Do I just need to cut a larger size at the bust? TIA

misschris
misschris
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Member since 2/3/06
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 8/27/12 4:24 AM

Harriet, I'm short above the bust and much bigger than a C cup The unaltered pattern had a neckline so low, half my bra was showing, and I'm very low busted!! I used the yoke piece that matched my high bust measurement and shortened it at the shoulder by a few inches. For the fba, I added to the centre front of the body piece which increased the gathers that I distributed evenly across the yoke. I also altered the sleeve cap height, but don't remember if I folded it out or took some off the top, changing the shape a little (which I sometimes do on high, narrow sleeve caps). It took a few muslins to get right, but I got there eventually.

------
chris

Melbourne

KathySews
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In reply to misschris <<


Date: 8/27/12 7:59 AM

I will give your alterations a try. I have the same problem, the top is just way too low to be comfortable. I was worried that shortening the yoke would cause the rest of the top not to fit correctly

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/27/12 8:10 AM

The top did fit in the shoulders and covered my bra and did not gape, though it was maybe a little low. I was mostly puzzled by the way the gathers at either side of the neckline pulled to the side, like there was not enough room for my bust. Is it a question of arranging the gathers differently, or should I add some fabric at center front? I could try inserting some fabric to the muslin there to see if that solves the problem.

misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 8/27/12 5:32 PM

Quote:
Is it a question of arranging the gathers differently, or should I add some fabric at center front?


A little of both, perhaps? If you've got fabric pulling across the front, then maybe you need to add to the width. I think the best placement of the gathers is dependent on your shape. Is your bust fullness straight out in the front or spread more across as width? It's another of those things that needs tweaking as you go.

------
chris

Melbourne

diane s
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Date: 8/28/12 10:59 AM

I made the similar KwikSew pattern, made a standard fba,(5/8") closed and rotated the dart into the neckline gathers. It would have fit OK without it, but now it's nice and smooth over the bust and the gathers hang and straight.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

HarrietHomeowner

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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 8/28/12 11:16 AM

Maybe I'll have to try an FBA. I was hoping that with a knit it wouldn't be necessary, and that HP is sized for a fuller bust anyway, but I guess not.

michellep74
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Date: 8/28/12 12:01 PM

I shortened the yoke in mine and scooped out the armscye a touch. I've made this pattern a bunch of times. I get those horizontal wrinkles when I use a less drape fabric, so fabric choice might play a factor.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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In reply to michellep74 <<


Date: 8/28/12 1:09 PM

Michelle, how exactly did you shorten the yoke? Did you take the length off the top of the shoulder or somewhere else?

michellep74
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 8/28/12 1:59 PM

Quote: HarrietHomeowner
Michelle, how exactly did you shorten the yoke? Did you take the length off the top of the shoulder or somewhere else?

I made a small tuck halfway between the shoulder seam and the bottom. I made the same tuck in the bodice pattern piece.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

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