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Forum > Fitting Woes > correct fitting pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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correct fitting pants
am I beating a dead horse?
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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Subject: correct fitting pants--edited with pic Date: 8/27/12 6:05 PM

For the 13 years I have been sewing, I have vainly tried to make myself the perfect fitting pair of pants. The problem I have over and over again with every pattern I use is that I have too much fabric under my butt cheeks. I am sorry if that too graphic but I don't know any other way to describe it. For several years I have resigned to buying my pants. It seems like the more money I spend on them, the better they fit me, but I am sick of spending money on pants. I really like the skinny ankle pants. I really love J Crew Cafe Capri pants. I have bought a couple of pairs on sale. However, I still have the extra fabric under the butt. I have tried scooping out some of the fabric close to the crotch by taking a deeper seam on the RTW pants, but it just produces wrinkles under my butt. Nevertheless, I have worn them. In the past few days, though, I have begun to think that there has to be a way to get pants that fit better. What got me to thinking is that I bought a couple of pairs of JCrew Cafe capris on final sale. I tried them on in the dressing room and reasoned that I could just scoop out the extra fabric under the butt by taking a deeper seam close to the crotch. I have no idea why I thought it would be any different than the other times, but I still got the same wrinkling on the back legs. Insanity!!! I want my pants to fit like this:

I have begun to wonder though if that is an impossibility. I wonder how much of that picture is photoshopped--how many wrinkles and bagginess they smoothed out with editing the picture. I know some companies will pin the clothing on their models so that it looks great in the pics. Please tell me if there is any hope of getting my pants to fit me like I want? IF so, could someone tell me how to get rid of the extra fabric under the butt without causing wrinkling? Thank you.

Here is a pic of how they fit. This is not me, but this is exactly how they fit me. This is taken from a JCrew review site.

-- Edited on 8/27/12 6:10 PM --
-- Edited on 8/27/12 6:51 PM --
-- Edited on 8/27/12 6:53 PM --

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 8/27/12 6:18 PM

can you post a picture? And regarding the model, maybe she has no butt to speak of, so any pants would fit her better than the most :)

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to blessedtosew <<


Date: 8/27/12 6:47 PM

If you can find the answer to the butt baggies, you will help a lot of us. It's pretty much an ongoing search

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 8/27/12 6:50 PM

Here is a pic of what I am talking about. This is not me but a pic taken from a J Crew review site. Mine fits exactly the same way.

-- Edited on 8/27/12 6:52 PM --

Changma
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Changma  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/27/12 6:56 PM

Looks like calf area needs to be enlarged, front crotch too long and/or needs more of a curve, and back crotch too short. LOOKS LIKE
And upper thigh a little too tight.
-- Edited on 8/27/12 6:58 PM --

lyndle
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lyndle  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/27/12 7:18 PM

I'm no expert but you may benefit from moving the legs outwards. Sew4fun (Belinda) used to have a great piece about this on her blog. She has take her blog down but quite a few sewists have used it, so if you search someone may have reproduced the process. From memory, cut across the pattern at crotch height, then shift the leg pieces outwards (ie increase the gap between the legs) a little. Scooping out the crotch makes room for a bigger bottom which I don't think is your problem. Hopefully one of the experts will weigh in here! Also check out Sarah Veblen's phtotfitting book - it is very useful.

Nursebennett
Nursebennett
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Date: 8/27/12 7:35 PM

Particularly in the pictures of the blue pants, the fit is altered by the shoes the model is wearing. The heels make the calf muscle taut. It would be interesting to see the fit of the blue pants if the model were wearing flats or barefoot.

The green pants look like a stretch woven that are tightly fit, IMHO.

Good luck. Pants fitting is torture.

Sickofitcindy
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Sickofitcindy
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Date: 8/27/12 8:38 PM

I have developed a great patterns block and have eliminated most of the bagginess. I started with kenneth king's pants moulage and had my draping teacher pin out the excess ease. It did take three muslins but now I'm very happy witty the fit.

GoSewGirl
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Date: 8/27/12 9:11 PM

As the wife of a professional photographer, I had to pop in with an FYI about the photoshop comment/question. You are absolutely right, it is HEAVILY retouched. No pant on any body looks that smooth across the backside. Zoom into the photo and you can begin to guess how many wrinkles were just wiped right out - the model doesn't even look 3-D. Her a** looks totally flat like a paper doll. So not only is it retouched, but badly retouched!

And for what it's worth, I think the wrinkles in your pants (if similar to the photo of the blue pants you showed us) aren't actually all that bad. These are pants, not trousers, so they are more fitted, but will need to have some ease back there so you can sit down! You might be able to tweak it a bit, but please don't judge your fit on the J.Crew catalog photo as it's not even close to being real!!

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Liz

Sewliz
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In reply to blessedtosew <<
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Date: 8/27/12 9:15 PM

It looks like the reviewing person's thighs are too big for the pants she is trying. Unbelievable, isn't it, since she has a gorgeous shape and one could hardly say she has big thighs. The green Cafe Capri pants seem to be made for the JCrew model's shape, boy hips and stick legs.

You can get the same fit, if you know how your figure differs from the model's figure. You probably have some thigh shape. Notice how the model in the green pants has legs that seem to have a gap from crotch to ankle. Ms. Blue pants has top thighs that touch. Touching thighs take up more leg room than stick gaping thighs. So we need to make room for thighs. Since Ms. Blue tried on pants that she could get over her more shape than stick thighs she chose pants that do not fit her well in the hips. Look at the loose waistband. Ms. Blue pants also had good calf muscles, genetic or she is a runner or some such thing. The pants are getting hung up on her calves, that spells more under butt wrinkles.

You need to know your shape in relation to the "standard" shape that patterns and much of RTW is drafted for. This is key. Lengths and widths at all levels. Are you wider or deeper than the standard model? Are you longer or shorter from waist to hip? How does your side curve compare to the standard? What is the shape of your thighs from hip to knee. Stick straight, tubular, hour glass, gradual curve inward, dramatic curve inward, etc. You also need to be very clear about what style of pants you want. In this case it looks like cigarette pants. Be aware of how pants, trousers, and jeans differ.

You probably know most or all of this already. Now just get nerdy technically honest about it and apply.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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