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Valentino Dress: Gathered & Supported Arm Bindings?
How Are These Armhole Bindings Made?
abcameo
abcameo  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/5/12 10:34 AM

I'm working on a two-layer, sleeveless blouse--pattern Vogue V8815: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8815-products-22897.php?page_id=174 I've placed a sheer-and-embroidered home dec fabric over it's matching polyester/satin embroidered fabric. Instead of the bias binding tape I'm supposed to use for the armhole binding, I would love to use the sheer fabric to create this ruched effect shown in Valentino's beautiful cocktail dress shown here: http://www.la-advertising-photographer.com/fashionphotographyblog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/High-fashion-dress-by-valentino.jpg

My armscye would not be deep like the dress shown. Can anyone explain in basic terms how to measure, gather, support the outside edge, and stitch this onto my blouse? Unfortunately, I'm only a beginning-intermediate sewist with big eyes and design aesthetics minus the tech skills to match!

Advice much appreciated.
P.S. I tried to add the automatic click links but couldn't get it to work.
-- Edited on 9/5/12 10:35 AM --

marymary86
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In reply to abcameo <<


Date: 9/5/12 10:56 AM

I couldn't find the pattern but here is the image you referred to in the second link you posted:

------
Mary


dresscode

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Date: 9/5/12 12:20 PM

Most likely there is a smooth layer (two layers probably) of organza basted together under that ruching. Cut the organza the shape plus seam allowance to attach to rest of bodice.

Or, the entire bodice is worked and stitched to a firmer under layer of power mesh.

That bodice almost looks like it is a stretch.
-- Edited on 9/5/12 3:17 PM --

Elona
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Date: 9/5/12 1:52 PM

At this site, there are several more views of the dress, including a closeup. The description says the dress is fully lined, nude-colored, synthetic tulle, with a whole lot of expensive embroidery and appliqué. The greatest enlargement lets you see that most of the flowers were embroidered onto 'waste canvas,' then cut out and appliqueed.

Also, under enlargement, it looks as though the puffy armhole bindings are indeed sewn on (there appears to be a seam allowance under the tulle) in two layers and gathered a lot at the armhole edge.

One could buy the dress all made up for a mere $15, 668.00.
-- Edited on 9/5/12 1:59 PM --

Fruzzle

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Date: 9/5/12 3:56 PM

I think your armscye must be deep in order for this to work.

From the picture, it looks like the gathering is on the exterior (arm) edge, and the interior part that is stitched to the garment is not gathered. Since gathering is accomplished by putting fabric in a space that is too small for it, it's the interior curve that's causing the smallness, if that makes sense. Like a running track. The outside lane is longer than the inside lane. You need to cut a strip the length of the outside lane, then gather it so it fits into the inside lane. The wider your "running track," the bigger the difference between the inside & outside lanes, and hence the more gather in the inside lane, if you will.

I'd do a trial and error process with this. Start by estimating the absolute widest armscye you can imagine given the proportions of the blouse. Let's say for the sake of argument, 5". Double it and add seam allowances to both sides--5" + 5" + 1/2" + 1/2" = 11". Cut a strip 11" wide from your fabric and long enough to track around the armscye 5" in. I think you will have enough play that you don't need this to be cut on the bias, but press in the center and press the seam allowances in, so you can treat it like really wide bias binding.

Now pin this in place and pin in the gathers, and see what it looks like. Rinse and repeat until you find the width of fabric that looks best (but you don't need to recut--just re-press and re-pin until you find the configuration you like best, THEN cut to size).

abcameo
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Date: 9/5/12 10:42 PM

Do you think it's sewn on like bias tape, first with right sides together then stitched in the ditch to capture a folded over edge on the inside?

creative1
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In reply to Fruzzle <<


Date: 9/6/12 0:28 AM

Quote:
The outside lane is longer than the inside lane. You need to cut a strip the length of the outside lane, then gather it so it fits into the inside lane.
If you cut the strip the length, you say, of the OUTSIDE lane, then the gathers would be on the INSIDE lane!
They cut those armscye pieces off the original back and front pieces, then made cuts across all the way along the pieces, and opened them up, from the outline lane, leaving the inside lane the same length. I hope it makes sense.
It is a beautiful dress, good luck on your journey to reproduce it!
Elona
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In reply to creative1 <<


Date: 9/6/12 1:05 AM

Exactly, creative! What is needed is illustrated in Figure 3 here. You will be making the arc larger than the actual armhole and gathering that edge.


-- Edited on 9/6/12 1:07 AM --

a7yrstitch
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In reply to abcameo <<


Date: 9/6/12 2:09 AM

Okay, I think you have got the nitty gritty on how to achieve this from the posts. Even though I haven't learned to post photos, I am all over visuals.

Grab a couple of old file folders. Trace as much of the arm opening edge of the front bodice pattern on one. Repeat with the back bodice.

Cut off the seam allowance around the armhole on both pieces. Measure from the seam allowance in, maybe three inches. Cut off the excess beyond that three inches. Okay, now you have a template.

You can refine your template by enlarging the bodice of the dress on your screen. Then hold a piece of paper up to the bodice and mark off the outer arm opening edges and the transitions from gathered race track to center front embroidered piece and across to the gathered racetrack and finally to the arm hole opening on the other side.

You'll have a piece of paper with four marks on it. Working off of a picture, they may not be exactly even from side to side, but you can tidy that up. You'll want to measure and figure the ratio of the race tracks to the center panel to transfer the numbers to your own pattern to figure out the real template width.

If numbers aren't your thing, enlarge your sheet with the four little marks until it matches up, side to side, on the same place on your pattern.

Back to your template. Okay, you've got a reasonable way of determining width. Just glancing at the first picture, it looks as if that template width may be a bit shallower under the arms. Pull out the magnifying glass to study the screen image. If there is a gradation in width, you can estimate that and sketch it to your template. It would be reasonable to think the designer fudged that underarm racetrack a bit to establish a more pleasing balance and shape in the more visible 'cut-in' embroidered center bodice.

Not edited and to be cont.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to a7yrstitch <<


Date: 9/6/12 2:33 AM

What are you going to do with the template? For sure, consider if there will be a top seam or only a bottom seam. (magnifying glass again, but probably only a bottom armhole seam which really works out to be a side seam).

Cut a long extra wide strip. Baste in a seam one inch from the side. Then a gathering seam 3/4'' from the same side and another 1/2'' from the same side. Align the first line of basting stitching with the inside edge of the race strip. It may help to use a hole punch to punch in sets of closely spaced holes to be able to secure the fabric with a small number of pins.

Use the two rows of gathering stitches to snug the strip up and close to the edge of the template along that basted 1 inch line. In the end, those two gathering stitches will be undone to allow that edge of your race track to lay flat under the embroidered bodice edge.

With the inside bodice edge of the racetrack secure against the template, you can now form your outer gathers. If I was investing the time, I'd do this part by hand. It's just an armhole. The gathers are intentionally made to be, well, gathers. No dainty gathering stitches to try to hide what it is. You could cut a strip of graph paper to go along the edge of the template to mark wider gathering stitches. You could also use a hole punch again to help space out a gathering stitch gauge. Or you may just want to eye and finger press in your pleated gathers and then stitch.

I think you can get it from here. Your first racetrack posters were brilliant in providing you with the imagery to go at this piece of art.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

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