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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Underlining viscose with cotton? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Underlining viscose with cotton?
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Ranskanainen
Ranskanainen
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Date: 9/6/12 12:25 PM

Hi all!

So, I'm new to the website, and starting to use my grandmother's Pfaff select 3.0 machine which she gave me when going to the retirement home, with a vintage pattern (I know, I know, and I'm even adding piping to the seams just because I like my things difficult).
The pattern in question is Simplicity 1473 (just the dress, with tabs).
I did a quick muslin and made some slight alterations (to the bust and waist darts, shortened the length too). I was ready to cut the green fabric (tiny white floral pattern) when I received a package from my mother with lots of fabric... and changed my mind! However, the fabric I'd like to use is a viscose (I supposed cotton?) that's quite light, quite flowy, with no body at all and that would be totally unforgiving with this kind of dress (hello obvious undergarments!)
I have a few yards of some Italian beige cotton fabric (don't quite know what kind, just that it's slightly satiny, tightly woven and very soft, feels like quality fabric but what do I know) and was wondering if I could use the viscose print with that cotton as underlining. Is that possible? I mean, has anyone ever tried it and would be kind enough to share if any issues? Does it make any sense to make this type of dress (rather close-fitting) in a(n underlined) viscose or should I stick to some studier cotton alone?

Thanks in advance to whoever can share their experience!

CraftAddict
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Date: 9/6/12 12:35 PM

I would think you can use any type of fashion fabric you like as long as you're able to give it some body. Have you considered a fusible tricot?

path49
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In reply to Ranskanainen <<


Date: 9/6/12 12:49 PM

Viscose is rayon. It'll work but make sure you preshrink both fabrics if you intend to wash it later. CraftAddict has the easiest solution tho...just back all the pieces with fusible tricot. But I personally think the cotton would look nicer on the inside.
-- Edited on 9/6/12 12:52 PM --

Ranskanainen
Ranskanainen
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Date: 9/6/12 2:04 PM

Thanks for the input! Hmmm, I've been so far using only smaller pieces of fusible interfacing a while ago, I'm wondering how it would feel inside the whole dress... These smaller pieces were rather stiff and had no stretch, feeling more paper-ish, so wouldn't it "conflict" with flowy viscose somehow? But then again, not sure if by fusible tricot you mean just that kind of fusible interfacing or another type of fusible interfacing I haven't come across yet (I'm gradually expanding my sewing lexicon, mind you, I'm French... and living in Finland, so finding specific products by their english names is tricky at best!)
I can try to ask for it at the local fabric store. If using this fusible tricot, I'd fuse it with the pattern pieces and sew it in the darts, right?
Next question (more coming as I go...): it's a vintage pattern and interfacing is supposed to be sewed in, not fused. if replacing with fusible interfacing, would it be fused inside the facing pieces or on the actual bodice piece? That applies also in case I use that beige fabric, since I'd have to put some interfacing if the beige fabric stands in for facing. Thanks again for your comments.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 9/6/12 6:44 PM

Fusible tricot (also known as Fusi-knit) is really, really lightweight and flexible, suitable for knit garments where you still need things to be able to stretch. So it would add a little body to your rayon/vicose without changing the hand/drape dramatically. I think trying that *plus* a lining (a regular lining, not flatlining the pieces) might give you the structure you want, without making the fabric too stiff.

ETA: this photo does a decent job of showing you how sheer and flowy the Fusi-knit is.


-- Edited on 9/6/12 6:46 PM --

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~Gem in the prairie

CathrynR
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Date: 9/6/12 7:47 PM

Another option to look into would be a good quality cotton batiste. I think the batiste would work better than the tightly woven satin cotton you described. Be sure to preshrink.

Nancy K
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Date: 9/6/12 8:06 PM

I wonder if you are doing your drapey fabric, and yourself a disservice. Sometimes the fabric is just not suitable for the pattern we want to sew.
If you decide to go ahead I think that you'd be better off going with some silk organza to underline to give the fabric the quality that this pattern needs.

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solosmocker
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Date: 9/6/12 9:28 PM

I'm with Nancy on this. This is a structured dress and as such needs a fabric with some body. Rayon is lovely because it drapes so nicely. That is a fabric you use on soft flowing fuller garments. Have you looked at the back of the pattern to see the suggested fabrics? The only way I see this dress working is to totally fuse the fabric with the Fusi Knit. Given that that will alter all that is good and nice about the hand and drape of your viscose, you may want to use different fabric. Your rayon would be lovely for a full skirted softer vintage dress.

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Ranskanainen
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Date: 9/8/12 1:09 PM

Hi again and thanks for all your comments and suggestions! I slept on it and much to my own dismay decided not to use that viscose fabric just yet... Darn, the print was just so perfect. Now I'm stuck with my green fabric that gets a little more Christmassy every time I look at it... hopefully changing the red piping to white will make it wear- or bearable!

I'll be on the lookout for a suitable skirt pattern for my darling viscose and my red piping, but in any case it'll definitely need lining for the sheerness. I love the feel of this type of fabric, but it doesn't seem to suit any of the sewing projects I have in mind. Tricky!

solosmocker
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Date: 9/14/12 2:42 PM

You have just learned one of the most important lessons of sewing and avoided one of the most common mistakes, using a fabric not appropriate to the style. Congratulations! That and proper pressing will give you a garment that doesn't screech "home made". Good luck on your journey.

FWIW, the fabrics that any pattern will work best in are listed on the back of the envelope. Stick with those and you usually can't go wrong. A pattern company rep told me some years back that the first fabric listed is the one the garment is made out of on the front picture of the envelope and the first one the original designer recommends.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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