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Patterns for plus sized girls?
ahrizel
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ahrizel
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Date: 9/6/12 4:00 PM

I've been trying to find some better girls plus sized patterns. I have several, all from the big 3 pattern company. But I really need a bigger fit then they give. In other words, I need it for a heavier girl then the size chart the big companies use. Does anyone make patterns for girls like this? I know, you can modify from an existing pattern, but I'm not very good at this yet. The closer the pattern is to the fit I need, the better. Thanks, Mary

Lindy Ann
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In reply to ahrizel <<


Date: 9/6/12 4:35 PM

Can you tell us about the girl you're trying to fit? Age, height, waist or other measurements? That might help us in getting ideas for patterns for you to try. I've done a little sewing like this for a couple girls.

ahrizel
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ahrizel
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Date: 9/6/12 5:10 PM

More info, no problem. She's full grown and wears a body brace for scoliosis, which is what makes her extra wide. She's also thicker in the body because of the scoliosis, her body is compressed. She'd be several inches taller minus this. Measurements-
Without the brace-chest 34.5
waist-31
hips-31
back waist length-10

With the brace
chest-36.5
waist-34.5
hips-35.5
back waist length-12
And a whopping inseam of 20" !
And she's around 54 inches tall. She's an adult who is wheelchair bound, but is full grown and what fits her now will fit her next year. She is post adolescent and has developed some, but not enough to make an impact on size. Because of the brace she wears undershirts all the time underneath, so sleeveless tops or dresses are very hard to fit. Necklines can't be too low or the brace shows. And since the brace is plastic and foam, there is very little give for fit with non stretch fabric. I've posted about her before since I really want to make her some nice clothes. Even a girls plus isn't really right because she is too short for the 16.5, though with some patterns it doesn't matter. But her measurements are too wide for the 16.5, but she should be a 10-12 by height. Knit fabric has always been recommended, and they are very useful. But I would love patterns for her that I could do in wovens for the occasional dressup. I've modified a simple jumper pattern for by sizing up the bodice. Once that fits the skirt is no problem. But when it gets more complicated I'm not sure that would work. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Mary

Andi
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In reply to ahrizel <<
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Date: 9/6/12 5:50 PM

If I were doing this, I would take a misses sized pattern that corresponds to her bust/chest with brace. THen I would take out horizontal tucks between the shoulder and bottom of armseye, between armseye and waist, between waist and crotch point. Hopefully with the bodice tucks you can get the back waist to match her measurement. If you look in a alterations magazine, this is called a petite adjustment.

If you need less curves than a misses sized pattern allows, you could just straighten those seam lines.

I know it is a lot of work, but if you could make a fitting shell, at least for her bodice, it may make it easier to sew for her.

You may want to look at Christine Jonson's patterns, as she designes exclusively for knits. SHe also sell some beautiful knit fabrics.NAYY

Cheddar4
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Date: 9/6/12 6:34 PM

Another option might be Jalie patterns, especially for knit tops. Most patterns have a size range of a girls size 2 to a woman's 22 all in one pattern. You could go between sizes to get the correct fit.

ahrizel
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ahrizel
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Date: 9/6/12 6:53 PM

The Jalie patterns look wonderful. I'm coveting several of them, both for me and her. Big bonus for the huge range of sizes on them. the alterations you describe sound a little out of my league, at least yet. I'd love to take a class on pattern alteration and grading. It would be great for her and for my clothes too. The knit stuff is much easier, I can go close to her size and the stretch of the knit takes care of the rest. I have to shorten length and sleeves, but that isn't too hard on simple patterns. The biggest problem for me is that traditional, younger styles are best for fit and coverage. The older teen type styles are more difficult to fit and don't usually have the right coverage. Of course these styles usually end at size 8 or so. Sigh...
I'm going to be duct taping her to make a bodice pattern for a costume, so I'll have a basic bodice for her to at least compare pattern pieces too. I know in theory with a bodice shell I could just add sleeves from another pattern to make a fitted dress. But the theory and the execution are far apart for me. Any good references to articles or tutorials that might be helpful?
Mary

diane s
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Date: 9/6/12 8:20 PM

Currently Simplicity has 7 patterns in 'Girls Plus' sizes. They go up to 16 1/2. The measurements for 16 1/2 are 36 chest. 32 waist and 39 hip.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

chrisquilts_2
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Date: 9/6/12 10:40 PM

I strongly recommend Jalie over the plus sized patterns. Given that you are likely to make several once you have the draft down pat, I think you will see the value of them. Personally I can't seem to relate the plus sized girls finished garment to the size it is supposed to fit. There is so much eases it just appears the wrong size.

I might even try emailing the Jalie folks for advice...

Eta.
Jalie does have a knit skirt and several more fashion forward knit tops that do look nicer than t shirts. I recommend the cardigan especially highly.
-- Edited on 9/6/12 10:43 PM --

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Too much fabric to count...

Karla Kizer
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Date: 9/7/12 7:26 AM

For a while, Burda offered a few patterns for plus size children, and if you keep an eye on etsy or ebay, you might be able to find a few of them. Right now, this one is offered on ebay. I googled "Burda plus girls pattern".

Edit: In the interest of creating a few patterns that could be modified and dressed up to look different, this one might offer a starting point for pull-on pants. It includes misses and kids sizing, so you might be able to combine sizes to make something that would work for pajamas or pull-on knit pants.
KwikSew 3837
-- Edited on 9/7/12 7:52 AM --

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Andi
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Date: 9/7/12 11:01 PM

My local thrift shop carries a lot of pattern, and I noticed yesterday there were some descent patterns for teens, some plus sized, and some not. If you let me know what types of things you are looking for I could pick them up for you when I see them.

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