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Message Board > Fabrics and more... > Interlining Crepe Backed Satin Suggestions + more ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Interlining Crepe Backed Satin Suggestions + more
Simplicity # 1909 view C
Heavenly Design
Heavenly Design  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CT USA
Member since 8/8/11
Posts: 12
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Date: 9/6/12 11:58 PM

I have been asked to sew a brides maid gown for a friends daughter out of crepe backed satin using Simplicity pattern # 1909. It calls for an invisible zipper. I am not a novice sewer but I have never sewn on Crepe Backed Satin and upon investigating sewing on this fabric and inserting an invisible zipper, I seem to be having more questions than answers. Do I interline? If so, what fabric would I use? If I interline, do I also line the garment as well? Would I use a different material to interline the bodice and another type for the skirt. If so, what material is recommended? Is inserting an invisible zipper on this material a nightmare and is there an easy technique, perhaps hand-sewing it in? Is there a recommended technique for hemming Crepe Backed Satin?

I have a serger as well as a standard sewing machine so, if there is a quicker technique using the serger, I'm open to it. Also, I am reading that this material tends to pucker as it is sewn. Is there a particular sewing machine needle that is recommended when sewing on this material? A particular thread type? I've read a Microtex needle and cotton thread (silk finish cotton thread used in embroidery machines because it's thinner) can eliminate the puckering problem. I've also read that a "Walking Foot" is recommended, which I own.

So many choices! I do plan on making a rough muslin before I cut the garment material but before I get to the point of cutting the garment material I would appreciate any guidance in working with this material. Thanks....so overwhelmed...

couturemom
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couturemom
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NC USA
Member since 7/19/11
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Date: 9/7/12 4:54 PM

I recently made a dress for a 70-yr old bride (!) from this pattern. She picked her own fabric - lavender poly crepe-backed satin. I have since banned this fabric from my sewing room, so my condolences on having to work with it.

I personally don't think underlining or interlining is necessary. Regular lining should be sufficient.

For the zipper, you should interface the seam allowance area to provide stability. (search for more info on that if you've never done it before.) Also, handbasting the zipper in place before machine stitching really helps a lot.

I don't have any comments on needles/threads, although I probably used a microtex 70 and metrosene or dual duty thread.

I would do a baby hem. (there are many posts with instructions for that)

Heavenly Design
Heavenly Design  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CT USA
Member since 8/8/11
Posts: 12
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In reply to couturemom <<


Date: 9/7/12 7:19 PM

Thanks so much for your input "couturemom"! I am determined to have fun doing this project and learning a lot along the way. I bought a yard of the crepe backed satin to fool around with before starting the project and sewing single thread darts as sewing darts on this material seems to be something others have had a problem with...getting them to lay down at the point. I think I've mastered it.

I also tried steaming a seam and discovered that an outline of it shows through on the right side. Looked that up and someone suggested laying down a piece of stiff cardboard along the seam and using a pressing cloth...that worked beautifully.

I'm making a muslin before starting and thought I'd use the working piece of crepe backed satin for the bodice muslin, just to get a feel for how the fabric will act on the "bridesmaid" especially as I adjust it.

Thanks for the suggestion for doing a baby hem, I will investigate. Just couldn't see myself lining the entire skirt just so I can use it to attach the hem to it.

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