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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pinch two inches at shoulder seam at lower armhole for better fit? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pinch two inches at shoulder seam at lower armhole for better fit?
What alteration does this indicate I need?
chrisquilts_2
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chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/13/12 9:31 AM

I've discovered that even with my RTW tops, if I pinch sometimes as much as two inches at the shoulders my tops fit better ( ignoring the fact that the armholes nearly up at my ears). What alteration does this indicate I would benefit from? What physical attribute would cause this to be so? Sloping shoulders? Don't think I have that...more like square shoulders? High bust?

Can someone please direct me to a reference, I'd like to do a better job at fitting? While I haven't noticed the issue with knit tops, it definitely is a problem with wovens.

Thanks for any advice
-- Edited on 9/13/12 9:31 AM --

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marec
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Date: 9/13/12 10:38 AM

How tall are you? I do a petite adjustment by removing length between shoulder and bust when sewing woven blouses.

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Elona
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In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<
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Date: 9/13/12 12:18 PM

Two inches is a LOT!

What it means depends on where the two inches is being pinched out. Are you pinching vertically, essentially making the armhole much, much less deep? If so, you might have a very short vertical distance between your bust point and your shoulders.

Or are you pinching the shoulder seam so as to make the distance shorter between your neck base and the tip of your shoulder?

If so, it probably means that you have a tiny frame with narrow shoulders (be they sloping or square)

You might want to take a look at Nancy Zieman's measuring technique for the area above the bust (you'll need someone to help you do it). It's about a quarter of the way down the page.

Here is one of the classic methods for narrowing the pattern when it's too wide in the shoulders.

jannw
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In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<


Date: 9/13/12 12:21 PM

Where do your darts lie? I can do that also, but noticed it was a dart problem not an armsyce problem...
I now raise my darts on most patterns (Vogue is the exception) and everything fits.

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chrisquilts_2
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:31 PM

Wow! Ok specifics. I pinned a 'shoulder dart' starting at two inches at the neckline on the shoulder seam tapering to none at the top of the arm. KWIM? So while this now makes the arm tight, the rest of the top hangs much better.

I don't feel like I have small shoulders, but, maybe I do. Its all relative.

Thanks for the source. I'm sure nancy addresses it somewhere I just didn't
Know what to search for.
-- Edited on 9/13/12 1:38 PM --

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chrisquilts_2
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In reply to marec <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:33 PM

Five foot, four inches. But I have a longish torso, shorter legs. One piece swimsuits are always catastrophically too short. I add between 1-2 inches when I make my own.

I would Never have thought of doing a petite adjustment there....hmmmm

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chrisquilts_2
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In reply to jannw <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:36 PM

I've not paid attention to the location of the darts, good point. Maybe knits are just way more forgiving. Or since I use Jalie for my knits, i better match their model?

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Rhoda K
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In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:43 PM

Check out this thread. Many of us are in the same boat. If you shorten the area between the bust and shoulder, then I believe you would lower the armhole that same amount. Good luck.

Rainspa

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Date: 9/13/12 2:13 PM

Armcryes are being made larger and lower than ever in RTW. I'd check to see how low that seam was before assuming that you are shaped unusualy

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chrisquilts_2
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In reply to Rhoda K <<


Date: 9/13/12 4:07 PM

Thanks so much. Ok...I was wrong to think that only petite in stature people need petite adjustments. I'm still not exactly sure what my problem is, but that thread gives me lots to consider.

I just bought a woven shirt pattern from Jalie. I can compare it to a big4 and see if the draft is any different there. Wouldnt it be wonderful?

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