Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pinch two inches at shoulder seam at lower armhole for better fit? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Pinch two inches at shoulder seam at lower armhole for better fit?
What alteration does this indicate I need?
chrisquilts_2
star
chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/16/06
Posts: 1186
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/13/12 9:31 AM

I've discovered that even with my RTW tops, if I pinch sometimes as much as two inches at the shoulders my tops fit better ( ignoring the fact that the armholes nearly up at my ears). What alteration does this indicate I would benefit from? What physical attribute would cause this to be so? Sloping shoulders? Don't think I have that...more like square shoulders? High bust?

Can someone please direct me to a reference, I'd like to do a better job at fitting? While I haven't noticed the issue with knit tops, it definitely is a problem with wovens.

Thanks for any advice
-- Edited on 9/13/12 9:31 AM --

------
Too much fabric to count...

marec
starstarstarstar
marec  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 5/11/08
Posts: 3997
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/13/12 10:38 AM

How tall are you? I do a petite adjustment by removing length between shoulder and bust when sewing woven blouses.

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8126
Login to reply to this post

In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 9/13/12 12:18 PM

Two inches is a LOT!

What it means depends on where the two inches is being pinched out. Are you pinching vertically, essentially making the armhole much, much less deep? If so, you might have a very short vertical distance between your bust point and your shoulders.

Or are you pinching the shoulder seam so as to make the distance shorter between your neck base and the tip of your shoulder?

If so, it probably means that you have a tiny frame with narrow shoulders (be they sloping or square)

You might want to take a look at Nancy Zieman's measuring technique for the area above the bust (you'll need someone to help you do it). It's about a quarter of the way down the page.

Here is one of the classic methods for narrowing the pattern when it's too wide in the shoulders.

jannw
starstarstarstar
jannw  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8438
Login to reply to this post

In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<


Date: 9/13/12 12:21 PM

Where do your darts lie? I can do that also, but noticed it was a dart problem not an armsyce problem...
I now raise my darts on most patterns (Vogue is the exception) and everything fits.

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

chrisquilts_2
star
chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/16/06
Posts: 1186
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Elona <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:31 PM

Wow! Ok specifics. I pinned a 'shoulder dart' starting at two inches at the neckline on the shoulder seam tapering to none at the top of the arm. KWIM? So while this now makes the arm tight, the rest of the top hangs much better.

I don't feel like I have small shoulders, but, maybe I do. Its all relative.

Thanks for the source. I'm sure nancy addresses it somewhere I just didn't
Know what to search for.
-- Edited on 9/13/12 1:38 PM --

------
Too much fabric to count...

chrisquilts_2
star
chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/16/06
Posts: 1186
Login to reply to this post

In reply to marec <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:33 PM

Five foot, four inches. But I have a longish torso, shorter legs. One piece swimsuits are always catastrophically too short. I add between 1-2 inches when I make my own.

I would Never have thought of doing a petite adjustment there....hmmmm

------
Too much fabric to count...

chrisquilts_2
star
chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/16/06
Posts: 1186
Login to reply to this post

In reply to jannw <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:36 PM

I've not paid attention to the location of the darts, good point. Maybe knits are just way more forgiving. Or since I use Jalie for my knits, i better match their model?

------
Too much fabric to count...

Rhoda K
star
Rhoda K  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AL USA
Member since 8/22/05
Posts: 2055
Login to reply to this post

In reply to chrisquilts_2 <<


Date: 9/13/12 1:43 PM

Check out this thread. Many of us are in the same boat. If you shorten the area between the bust and shoulder, then I believe you would lower the armhole that same amount. Good luck.

Rainspa

Rainspa  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 1/1/07
Posts: 168
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/13/12 2:13 PM

Armcryes are being made larger and lower than ever in RTW. I'd check to see how low that seam was before assuming that you are shaped unusualy

------
I'm going to Costume College!

chrisquilts_2
star
chrisquilts_2  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/16/06
Posts: 1186
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Rhoda K <<


Date: 9/13/12 4:07 PM

Thanks so much. Ok...I was wrong to think that only petite in stature people need petite adjustments. I'm still not exactly sure what my problem is, but that thread gives me lots to consider.

I just bought a woven shirt pattern from Jalie. I can compare it to a big4 and see if the draft is any different there. Wouldnt it be wonderful?

------
Too much fabric to count...

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Pinch two inches at shoulder seam at lower armhole for better fit?

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Altering Jackets
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $59.00)
Altering Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
Altering Pants
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $59.00)
Altering Pants

Vogue Patterns 7871 dresses
photo
Review by Toozie on 4/16/08
Read Review

Salme Pussy Bow Blouse Digital Pattern
Salme Pussy Bow Blouse Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $7.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Santa Monica Sweetheart Tankini Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )
Peek-A Boo Santa Monica Sweetheart Tankini Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -8 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue Patterns 8648 Misses' Dress
photo
Review by NVK on 12/18/12
Read Review

9 inch Bent Handle Scissors
9 inch Bent Handle Scissors

Details
Price: $24.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sassy Bag
Sassy Bag

Details
Price: $8.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCalls 6965 Pattern ( Size 6-8-10-12-14 )
McCalls 6965 Pattern ( Size 6-8-10-12-14 )

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 1660 Pattern ( Size XXS-XS-S-M-L-XL-XXL )
Simplicity 1660 Pattern ( Size XXS-XS-S-M-L-XL-XXL )

Details
Price: $16.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN