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Bust Adjustment
DebMurphy
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Date: 9/13/12 9:07 PM

I have a question on bust adjustments. What is the difference between a prominent bust and a large bust adjustment found in Fitting & Pattern Alteration, A Multi-Method Approach (pg284-291). I use big four patterns size 14 for everything (length, bust, waist, hip) except neck & shoulders which I cut size 12. (I start the size 14 at the bottom of the armhole.) I do a forward head adjustment and sloping shoulders. I am a D cup. I have done the Fit for Real People FBA of 3/4" but maybe I'm not doing it right, because it seems like it makes the whole front to full, yet still rides up so the front is shorter than the back. And the bust darts are too high. Could it be just a issue of the dart placement?

Nancy K
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In reply to DebMurphy <<


Date: 9/13/12 9:37 PM

Part of it is the dart placement, an easy fix. It sounds like you need some more length over the bust. you might try rotating some or all of your bust dart to a vertical dart to make the fit better below the bust.

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unfinishedprojects
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Date: 9/17/12 12:29 PM

The "large bust" adjustment adds width only. The "prominent bust" adjustment adds to the length as well as the width.

Compare your measurements to the pattern (there are several points of comparison listed in the newer edition of the book.) Basically, if the pattern's full bodice length, center front, and/or shoulder slope (shoulder to center waist) are too short, then you need the "prominent bust" alteration.

I really appreciate that this book differentiates between the two since I don't need any added length. The standard FBA adjustments almost always add length.

diane s
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Date: 9/17/12 1:30 PM

If your dart is too high, it can make the garment feel like it's riding up. Lower the dart after the fba, because the fba lowers the dart a little, and it's easier to fine tune after. Also double check your shoulders, a forward shoulder adjustment is one the more common ones and helps with riding up.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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