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Message Board > Fitting Woes > The right tilt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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The right tilt
Getting back of pants to hang straight
seamsmith1
seamsmith1  Friend of PR
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Member since 10/23/11
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Date: 9/13/12 11:52 PM

I just viewed Louise Cutting's DVD on Threads Inside. She rotated the sleeve cap and armsye to fit a forward shoulder bone. She did this by removing the front seam allowance from the front of the sleeve cap and the front armsye and adding the seam allowance to the back of the sleeve cap and the back of the armsye. This moved the cap of the sleeve forward to go over the shoulder bone.
Would like opinions on whether this would work for a front pelvic tilt. Take the seam allowance from the front of the
-- Edited on 9/14/12 0:09 AM --

------
Love is'nt blind. Love is in spite of. MASD

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
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Date: 9/14/12 0:06 AM

Shouldn't there be more to your story? LOL

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I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

seamsmith1
seamsmith1  Friend of PR
Intermediate
LA USA
Member since 10/23/11
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In reply to seamsmith1 <<


Date: 9/14/12 0:24 AM


Hit tab by mistake here's the complete message. Couldn't edit either.
I just viewed Louise Cutting's DVD on Threads Inside. She rotated the sleeve cap and armsye to fit a forward shoulder bone. She did this by removing the front seam allowance from the front of the sleeve cap and the front armsye and adding the seam allowance to the back of the sleeve cap and the back of the armsye. This moved the cap of the sleeve forward to go over the shoulder bone.
Would like opinions on whether this would work for a front pelvic tilt. Take the seam allowance from the front waistline and add it to the back waistline. This would bring the left and right inseams and the center back and the center front seams (the "Four Corners") forward. Would this make the pants hang straight for a front pelvic tilt. I've tried everything suggested in the dozen books I own and all the articles I've read in magazines. Tired of making muslins! Want advise before trying again. TIA

------
Love is'nt blind. Love is in spite of. MASD

seamsmith1
seamsmith1  Friend of PR
Intermediate
LA USA
Member since 10/23/11
Posts: 37
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In reply to seamsmith1 <<


Date: 9/14/12 0:33 AM


Hit tab by mistake here's the complete message. Couldn't edit either.
I just viewed Louise Cutting's DVD on Threads Inside. She rotated the sleeve cap and armsye to fit a forward shoulder bone. She did this by removing the front seam allowance from the front of the sleeve cap and the front armsye and adding the seam allowance to the back of the sleeve cap and the back of the armsye. This moved the cap of the sleeve forward to go over the shoulder bone.
Would like opinions on whether this would work for a front pelvic tilt. Take the seam allowance from the front waistline and add it to the back waistline. This would bring the left and right inseams and the center back and the center front seams (the "Four Corners") forward. Would this make the pants hang straight for a front pelvic tilt. I've tried everything suggested in the dozen books I own and all the articles I've read in magazines. Tired of making muslins! Want advise before trying again. TIA

------
Love is'nt blind. Love is in spite of. MASD

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 2913
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Date: 9/14/12 3:18 AM

You found help for forward pelvic tilt in fitting books? I haven't been able to find much said on it. One source did say that if one had a forward pelvic tilt ("tucked under") you would need to correct that on the pants, but it didn't say what to do!

Basically what needs to be done is the center back needs to be longer and the center front needs to be shorter. That's great, but what is the proper way to go about this? It seems many make the cb seam longer at the crotch point and the cf seam shorter.

What you suggested makes sense to me. You can try it without having to make another muslin by turning down the front seam allowance and basting a portion to the top of the back. Does it work? Try several things and let us know. Many of us are still working on this fitting problem so you are not alone.

------
I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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In reply to seamsmith1 <<
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Date: 9/14/12 7:51 AM

Have you tried the method advocated by Peggy Sagers? When cutting out, add an extra inch or more above the waistline. Stitch up your pants. Then try them on, using elastic tied around your waist to hold the pants up - be sure the elastic is settled around your waist. Then pull the pants front & back up & down until they hang right. When they do, mark the fabric at the bottom of the elastic all around. That should be your seamline. Add a seam allowance, cut off the excess, and attach your waistband. Use the trimmed excess to help you alter your pattern for next time.

This works great for pants that sit at your natural waist.

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to seamsmith1 <<


Date: 9/14/12 8:29 AM

What you seem to be describing as "pelvic tilt" is what Bonfit calls "waistline stance". This is the way in which your back or the front part of your body tilts at the waistline; either forward or back. Most people don't have equally distant waistlines in front and back, like patterns are made, and have to alter. I have a waistline stance of -1" in the front. I found this out when I did the "normal" crotch length measurements by removing 1" from the front, and adding 2" to the back crotch length. I'm sure you've seen this method: If you have a crotch length measurement of 24", divide by two and remove 1" from the front and add 1" to the back. I have to remove 2" from the front and add nothing to the back.

You can correct this by two ways: Peggy Sager's way of trimming off the excess in the front at the waistline, tapering to nothing at the side seams, to get your skirt hem to line up. You place a piece of elastic around your waist and tug on it until your hemline becomes even.

Or if you're making pants, making a horizontal tuck in the CF, above the crotch curve half the amount of what you need to take up and tapering that to nothing at the sideseams.
-- Edited on 9/14/12 8:30 AM --

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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gramma b
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gramma b
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Date: 9/14/12 8:47 AM

As the senior tush loses roundness in this day of booty-obsession, inches down and migrates round to the stomach, I have found it too frustrating to muslin pants. All casual pants patterns seem too saggy--who is their fit model? At least they've come out with cinching non-Mommy Levis and Spandex leggings.

seamsmith1
seamsmith1  Friend of PR
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LA USA
Member since 10/23/11
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Date: 9/14/12 3:33 PM

Thanks all. Some books say to use "flat fanny" alteration for "tilted pelvis forward". Jan Minott in "Skirt and Pants Pattern" 1992 has the most to say about it, but it's scattered throughout the book. Her method is the most complicated that I've ever tried so I'm sure that I made several mistakes.
I thought moving the front waistline seam allowance to the back would tilt the "Fish Bowl" as the crotch curve is called in Joyful Expressions. As with each book or video purchase, I thought that I would find the answer in "Fitting and Pattern Alterations", Rasband et al. But the "fish bowl" was not tilted in any of the examples.

------
Love is'nt blind. Love is in spite of. MASD

Nancy K
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In reply to seamsmith1 <<


Date: 9/14/12 4:54 PM

As a veteran of the pants fitting wars, I will share some advice that helped me.
You will need a helper for this and a plumb line. I took some twine and tied it to a pattern weight with an open center. Decide where you want the side seam to fall at the waist and hip. If it's not where your seam is, mark where you want it to be. Then have a friend hold the cord at that mark, (this has to be long enough to just hit above the floor.) Mark where your cord hits you at the ankle. This is where your side seam will be plumb. It has to be plumb or perpendicular to the floor for the pants to hang properly. You can also do this at the inseam from the crotch and mark the inseam.(though you can also just figure it out from what you add or subtract from the side seam)
Take off the pants and transfer the markings to your pants pattern.
Mark a new side seam from the hip to this new mark. measure the amount you are removing and add it to the front or back. Draw a line from your hip down. You will probably have to make an opposite mark at the inseam. I do this on jackets and tops as well since I lately have had a tendency for the seam to pull to the back, because I am very flat in back and round in the front. Try it. It really works. Oh, and make sure you balance the legs by folding in half length wise and lining up the seam as far up as you can. New grainline. Draw a line perpendicular to this for the hemline to make sure that it is square to the grain.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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