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zipers and waistbands. where to stop and start where do you stop your zipper
avatrx   Advanced Beginner IL USA Member since 12/16/05 Posts: 344	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/15/12 7:54 AM on a basic pants pattern with a fly front zipper, I always use a longer zipper. putting in the zipper is no problem. here is my question: should I add the waistband with extensions and sew both extension OVER the zipper, or should I cut the zipper down below the waistband. My pants never seem to close properly. I'd like to extend one side of the band over the zipper on top and the other band under the zipper to a button or something on the inside. Is there a good way to do this? should I interface the folded over waistband?
BJ1400 Intermediate WV USA Member since 10/29/03 Posts: 2360	Login to reply to this post 2 members like this. Date: 9/15/12 8:48 AM Here's a good tutorial waistband ------ Beverly Janome Coverpro 1000CPX; Brother Serger 1034D; Kenmore 19233; Alden (early 1970's) http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com
Marie367   Intermediate OH USA Member since 5/28/11 Posts: 1360	Login to reply to this post In reply to avatrx << Like this post Date: 9/15/12 12:21 PM That tutorial that BJ linked to looks good. I am not sure what you are asking. I sew zippers from the top edge of the zipper to the top edge of the fabric and I cut the zipper off at the bottom. I know alot of advice says the opposite-it says to match the bottom edge of the zipper to the place you want it to end on the seam and cut it off from the top. I like having the extra at the top-zippers are made that way so you can sew the top without interfering with the actual zipper when you sew on the waistband (or in other words I am not sewing over the zipper). I am not sure what you mean about the extensions-you can pretty much do whatever you want with them-I use a two piece waistband and a lighter weight material for the inside band if my material is heavy. That really helps to reduce bulk. If I use a foldover waistband I only interface half of it. IMO a foldover waistband does not lay as nicely as a two piece (like in a curved waistband). I serge the edge of the inside waistband instead of turning it under (that just adds bulk) and carefully stitch in the ditch from the front side of the pants through all fabric (like most RTW does). This catches in the waistband facing. The length of the extensions are a personal preference-look at some RTW to see how they are done.
avatrx   Advanced Beginner IL USA Member since 12/16/05 Posts: 344	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/15/12 2:07 PM Thanks! I remember seeing that video. I only have a foldover waistband as opposed to a 2 part, but maybe I can incorporate her ideas into mine. It does look as though she covers the zipper with the waistband.
avatrx   Advanced Beginner IL USA Member since 12/16/05 Posts: 344	Login to reply to this post In reply to Marie367 << Like this post Date: 9/15/12 2:20 PM I always make my zipper longer and extend it off the top edge. I buu my zipper tape by the roll, so that works for me as long as I remember to secure the ends and NOT pull the tab off. What I wondered was whether or not you secure the band OVER the zipper tape at the top as opposed to somehow cutting off the zipper below the waistband area. I have a horrible time making a contoured waistband. I have yet to get one contoured to fit my contour. I only interfaced part of this waistband (1/2 of the width) but serged both lengthwise sections. I've never made a 2 piece waistband. Do you just cut 2 pieces - seam them along one edge and then? that is what I don't know. I'm must trying to find the best way to get a nice band. I just can't get the hang of a contoured band. I'm not sway back, but my waist seems to be much smaller at the center back and it always gaps. do my questions make sense?
BJ1400 Intermediate WV USA Member since 10/29/03 Posts: 2360	Login to reply to this post In reply to avatrx << 1 member likes this. Date: 9/15/12 3:42 PM Quote: avatrx What I wondered was whether or not you secure the band OVER the zipper tape at the top as opposed to somehow cutting off the zipper below the waistband area. Yes, sew the band over the zipper at the top. ------ Beverly Janome Coverpro 1000CPX; Brother Serger 1034D; Kenmore 19233; Alden (early 1970's) http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com
Nancy K Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7584	Login to reply to this post In reply to avatrx << 1 member likes this. Date: 9/15/12 5:40 PM If you cut it below the waistband you'll run the risk of having the pull come off the top. If you are using a nylon zipper it's not a problem to sew over the zipper. Cut the waistband several inches longer on both ends. Sew the overlap side first. When you sew the underlap, baste the first few inches so that you can easily adjust it if the seams don't match. The underlap should be about 1 1/2" past the zipper plus sas. This is assuming that you are not using a zipper shield in which case the underlap is the length of the shield plus sas. The overlap is lined up with the cf. You can use two pants hook and eyes, or a hook and eye and a buttonhole on the underlap. An extension of the overlap side is harder to sew and turn and get it to look good. It's easier to sew this look if you make the waistband 1 1/2" wide. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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