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Message Board > Fabrics and more... > Lace Seams ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Lace Seams
MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 9/19/12 3:09 PM

I'm making M6505 with a textured lace, using a rayon for the underlay/lining. The 'problem' I'm experiencing is that the lace doesn't seem to press flat, the seams end up being very soft (both the french seams I tried and will probably redo on the side seams and the dart seams). The french seams of the lace by itself (on the shoulders) don't turn out like this.

I'm starting to lose motivation on the project because of this. If this is expected behavior, I would deal with it and continue on. But I can't seem to escape the feeling that it should be looking better than it is, even with pressing between sewing steps.

Any thoughts?

ConnieBJ
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Date: 9/19/12 3:37 PM

What kind of lace is it? I did a dress using a spider webby type lace, and did a variation on a lapped seam. What I did was thread trace the seams, then lap them and baste. I took the foot off of my machine altogether and "free motion" quilted/sewed the seams. My fabric had a lot of beading so I had to take the foot off. If yours has no beading, a free motion or darning foot will work well. Work your way around motifs. You may be able to do two rows of stitching depending on the lace. After, cut away the excess fabric- carefully!
With the seams lapped, there is no bulk to worry about. The dress I did was a wedding dress and you couldn't see the seams after it was finished. I was worried about doing this with 200/yd fabric, but I was really pleased with the outcome.
If you would like, I have some photos of the process that I could share.

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Connie Bontje

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Desperately trying to keep ahead of my pattern, fabric and dressform collection!

MilongueraThreads
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MilongueraThreads
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Date: 9/19/12 3:47 PM

Hi Connie! Thank you for your suggestion!

It's a heavier lace on a netting. The netting almost feels like a knit since it moves around and stretches a lot. It drapes really well. The shoulder seams look really good but the side french seams and the darts are the ones that look really soft and bulky.

I've done lapped seams on lace trims before. The lace has sequin pastilles on it (glued on, not sewn).

This might have to be one of those "after grad school" projects.

couturemom
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Date: 9/20/12 1:46 PM

Connie - I'd love to see pictures!

Elona
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In reply to MilongueraThreads <<


Date: 9/20/12 2:30 PM

With lace, you really don't want the stitched lines to show, and there are hand-appliqué techniques for this. One experienced lady discusses this here. She says, "Coming from a couture bridal background I have sewn my fair share of lace gowns. as Kate said it is very labour intensive. its best not to sew darts in the lace but instead cut it and replace it over the fitted area.. its hard to describe, but basically lace can be cut and resewn by hand on a garment to conceal where the fitting has taken place."

Basically, you cut around the designs and hand-mold (then hand stitch) the lace in place. In the case of darts, it would amount to overlapping the lace and cutting off the extra underneath.

Clicking on the top right illustration here, you can see (or rather NOT see) the darts.

And here's one more illustration of the process (scroll down a little less than a quarter of the page).
-- Edited on 9/20/12 2:31 PM --

solosmocker
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Date: 9/21/12 4:43 PM

Heavy lace on a net background will not work with french seams as you have found out. Appliqueing the lace pieces is the way to go as Connie and Elona have suggested.

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