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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Recommended Books to learn more about design, drafting and draping

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Recommended Books to learn more about design, drafting and draping
Since I can't afford to go back to school to study fashion design...
colormefun
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colormefun
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 11/30/06
Posts: 144
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Date: 9/19/12 10:10 PM

I feel like I've reached a plateau in my sewing, even though there is soooo much I don't know how to do. Since this is the thread for design changes and drafting I was hoping some of you might have some recommendations for books that could teach me more advanced techniques, and teach me how to draft and drape my own designs.

Maybe there is a way to see what textbooks well-known fashion programs make their students buy and buy them used on textbooks.com...

I saw that Threads was giving away a copy of this book "The Art of Fashion Draping" 4th Ed. by Connie Amaden-Crawford. It retailed for over a $100, but I found the 3rd/ 2005 edition for sale (used) for $25.00, free shipping. Does anyone know anything about this book or author or have any other recommendations?

Thanks, I'd really appreciate your feedback!

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http://sewcolormefun.blogspot.com/

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
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Date: 9/19/12 11:27 PM

There are several out there, but the only one I have personal knowledge of is Dress Design, Draping, and Flat Pattern Making by Hillhouse and Mansfield.

It is an older book but maybe you can find a copy.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

nancy2001
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nancy2001  Friend of PR
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Alabama USA
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In reply to colormefun <<
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Date: 9/19/12 11:53 PM

Color, excellent book, excellent price. Last year I bought the 1988 edition of Connie Crawford's popular textbook on amazon for about the same price.

For drafting, I first bought the late Adele Margolis's classic and nontechnical introduction to pattern drafting for home sewers -- Design Your Own Dress Patterns. Then I bought a used previous edition of Helen Armstrong's popular textbook Patternmaking for Fashion Design.

For me, it was enough to spend an afternoon or two simply reading each book and mentally doing most of the exercises. But I had already done some pattern drafting (by trial and error) on my own.

I recommend Sarah Veblen's new book on fitting which also includes some patternmaking techniques -- it's called Perfect Fitting. Fiitting is a key part of the pattern drafting process.

To stretch your brain, you might want to get hold of the Japanese book (also written in Einglish) Pattern Magic. You might not wear any of the strange designs. But understanding how they are made will improve your ability to figure out how to replicate anything.

Honestly, the best way to learn to draft and drape your own patterns is to just try it. Even if your first few projects don't work out, you'll learn so much from the attempt. Don't be afraid to mix the different methods together. There's no limit to what you can create.

Good luck!

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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France
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Date: 9/20/12 2:47 AM

When I taught students I used Aldrich. Almost all of the textbooks on pattern drafting cover the same ground, but in slightly different ways. The adaptations given as examples in each book vary mainly because of the date the work was written, but the principles are the same, and not actually complicated, (its not rocket science). The hardest thing I find in drafting is not having your mind wander off and forget something you just did - did I put the seam allowance on this piece? What measurement did I use for the back shoulder? Have I added ease? Now, I've started keeping a notebook beside me. I also keep my intermediate drafts - the messy ones covered in sticky tape where the alterations were done - at least until I've definitively finished with the piece I'm working on.

colormefun
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colormefun
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Florida USA
Member since 11/30/06
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Date: 9/20/12 7:54 AM

I'm actually having a lot of fun looking through these textbooks now because since they *are* textbooks so once a new edition comes out the previous editions are sooo cheap. I'm finding like $1.00 textbooks, lol. Finally, market economics working in my favor! I think I will get the book for $25 and add anything else to the cart that looks decent for a good price, lets hope shipping doesn't ruin all my fun...

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http://sewcolormefun.blogspot.com/

andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Virginia USA
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Date: 9/20/12 12:49 PM

Just be sure to pay attention to condition grades A "Fair" copy is pretty ragged; I look for" Good". Textbooks disintegrate pretty quickly.

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

colormefun
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colormefun
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 11/30/06
Posts: 144
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Date: 9/20/12 4:29 PM

Definitely! most of them were supposedly "good" to "very good" sooo.... hopefully they work out. I went a little crazy buying them this morning, lol, my bf is gonna think I'm crazy when they all start arriving.

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http://sewcolormefun.blogspot.com/

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
Intermediate
Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3245
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In reply to colormefun <<


Date: 9/21/12 5:00 PM

Quote: colormefun
I feel like I've reached a plateau in my sewing, even though there is soooo much I don't know how to do. Since this is the thread for design changes and drafting I was hoping some of you might have some recommendations for books that could teach me more advanced techniques, and teach me how to draft and drape my own designs.



I know you asked for draping and drafting books, but you might also look into Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques, which focuses on high-end construction, tailoring, and finishing details.

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~Gem in the prairie

pieraci2
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pieraci2  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/21/12 7:40 PM

I found it very difficult to measure myself. Others measured me, also, and each and every time, there were differences of measurement. I am determined to learn pattern drafting. I contacted a sewing teacher I knew and asked her for an hour of her professional time to measure me. What I heard was "Pattern Making for Fashion Design" was THE BOOK....so I bought it. She measured me. I drafted. It just wasn't turning out. To make a long story short, I couldn't get it right. I went back to the teacher and some of her measurements were incorrect. She also pointed out that the book made quite a few assumptions that if you didn't know, it would really screw you up. This was her textbook at school. I finally drafted the bodice back and front. Then I began the skirt draft. The measurements were not correct again. How do I know? Determining dart placement ran me right off onto the grid paper and I was off the skirt pattern itself. I took specific measurements over again and my waist arc was two inches larger than she measured. All that time! Sooooo...... back in the 90's I took a pattern drafting class from Angela Muka at the local community college. I found her books. She leaves nothing for assumptions. Although the book is rather dense, she explains everything...the book is called "A French Touch...A Unique Method On How to Alter Effectively the Printed Patterns With Perfect Fit for All Sizes." She goes way back. Right now I am looking at the inconsistencies of my measurements, the books I choose, etc. My conclusion: nothing is perfect and use your gut too. I would recommend this book. It is out of print right now but if you search hard enough, I'm sure you could find it. I need to teach myself...sometimes, even the teacher is wrong!!!! Good luck

------
Paula

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