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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Bias strips with knit fabric ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Bias strips with knit fabric
Knitbunnie
Knitbunnie  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/20/12 7:12 PM

I'm making a pattern that requires numerous bias strips for ruffles and am using a lightweight knit. The pattern suggests either lightweight woven fabrics or lightweight jersey. Do the strips have to be on the bias if using a knit fabric? It would be so much easier to cut them along a straight edge

I've hardly ever sewn anything with knit fabric except some baby clothes, so this is going to be a challenge for me, since it's a very challenging pattern - V1255. A dear daughter desperately wants it in this particular fabric, so I will try.

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Knit, sew, knit, sew. What to do? What to do?

Ms. McCall
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Ms. McCall  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/20/12 7:35 PM

Are these strips to be used as the front embellishment, or somewhere else on the garment, do you know?

If it's just the decoration on the front, there's no real structural reason for them to be bias.

According to the other reviewers, you've picked a pretty difficult pattern!

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Knitbunnie <<


Date: 9/20/12 7:53 PM

I've seen this pattern and I would say No. At least, I wouldn't cut the knit on the bias. Now, if you were using a woven, that would be a different story. The knit won't ravel, but the woven certainly would.
-- Edited on 9/20/12 7:54 PM --

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marec
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In reply to Knitbunnie <<


Date: 9/20/12 9:03 PM

no, I just cut knits on either the cross grain or straight, depending on the stretch. That is a really cute pattern, but looks like it will be a bit of work. Good luck!!

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Lucy in Virginia
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Lucy in Virginia  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/20/12 9:24 PM

"Knits have no bias. That's not me that said it, that's Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Fabrics at many of her classes I've attended. Unless you're going for design effect, go ahead and cut it how you want. Know that if you want it to stretch more, you need to cut crosswise, usually. Only worry about bias if cutting out a woven, whether stretchy or not.

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Total Stash at end of 2013 -- about 750 yards.
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Nancy K
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In reply to Knitbunnie <<


Date: 9/20/12 9:27 PM

There is no bias in a knit. The only reason to cut it on the bias is when you want stripes to be on the bias. The cross grain is usually stretchier so decide if you need the stretch or not.

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wendyrb
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In reply to Knitbunnie <<


Date: 9/20/12 9:53 PM

I have a lightweight knit jersey cardigan that has a very similar ruffled front. The ruffles are cut on the lengthwise grain. They are stitched down parallel to the center front and inserted along the front button-placket edge. The ruffle edges are unfinished and curl to the wrong side.

Based on how my sweater looks, I'd do some stitch and wash sampling to test/trouble shoot a few things. Big issues on mine, granted the cardi was inexpensive-

1. The ruffles are stitched down the center to the front and after not much wear, the stitching is pulling the base fabric apart. The ruffles mostly cover it, but when I take it off, or if it flops open the punctured fabric forms visible lines up and down the front.

2. After wearing and washing, the knit raw edge looks a little frayed and fuzzy.

3. The ruffles do not lay open against the front. The 2 sides stick together and stick out from the front at pretty much a right angle. The underside of the 'iffy' ruffle edges are seen. So, you're gaining dimension across the bodice and depending the figure type that's good, bad or indifferent.

PLUS- from the reviews I'd look at mechanical ruffling, NOT pulling 2 basting threads per the instructions. If you have a serger, check that method or a sewing machine ruffler.

All that said, I love this vivid turqois cardi and wear it a lot. However, I didn't make it as a labor of love. I'm not saying don't make it. I hope this helps you anticipate and resolve potential issues. Your fabric may be more tame than mine!

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Knitbunnie
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Date: 9/21/12 10:40 AM

Thank you all for such great advice. I think I'll cut some ruffles (the strips are for ruffles on the front of the garment) in different directions and make a few swatches, then wash them and see how they look after washing and base my cutting direction on the outcome. The idea to gather them on a serger is GENIUS! I just bought a serger about a month ago, so using it for ruffling will be a new adventure for me. I'd thought about using my sewing machine ruffler attachment, but using my new serger sounds even better!. I'll try some sample with my sewing machine ruffler, too. Now that I've thought about it, in my mind, the ruffles look good done in fine pleats instead of gathers. More samples

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Knit, sew, knit, sew. What to do? What to do?

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