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Dress bottom side seams are not draping naturally as they should?
Zaneta
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Zaneta
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International AUSTRALIA
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Date: 9/22/12 6:22 AM

Hello, I have just finished sewing an A-line dress, the pattern is so lovely, Tessuti Blog (downloadable pattern) and I just used a polyester silky fabric. I am now bothered by how how the bottom side seams drape! They are almost kicking out at the bottom sides seams and sitting a bit stiff.. the remainder of the dress appears to have come together nicely. I just wonder why.. I have tried to use the iron to blast it a bit but to be honest I think I have made it worse... oh well. I will still wear it as it is meant to be the musilin.. but for my own knowledge would love to know how I can avoid this for next time. For the hem I made up some bias binding in the same fabric and attached to the bottom of the dress and then turned over and stitched in place.

Anyone else had this happen before?

Kind Regards

Zaneta

Marie367
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Date: 9/22/12 8:26 AM

Hi Zaneta (pretty name by the way!). I have had this happen before too. I think it was the fabric and yes ironing probably made it worse-you probably ironed it into that position rather than straightening it out. I also think the bias binding may not have helped. A bias binding is a bit unusual for a hem as it has lots of stretch. A facing can be used but I would not have done either with this fabric. I would have turned it up and hand stitched it or used hem tape. You can sometimes put weights in trouble spots in the hem to force the fabric to hang the way you want it to. I think you can buy some kind weights for this purpose in the notions department but fishing line weights work too; they are very small but heavy and can be found with the lures section in the sporting section of most stores. I will be interested to hear what other people suggest!

marec
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Date: 9/22/12 10:09 AM

That is so frustrating! I think it is probably the fabric also, and maybe it combined with a stitch length which is too short and pulling. Can you launder it, and if still "winging out", release the side seams and resew? Do you have a photo?

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Elona
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Date: 9/22/12 12:03 PM

Good suggestions! If you don't mind messing with the dress a bit more, you could try cutting the side seam threads at, let's say, two inch intervals to see if that allows the seams to relax and drape like the rest of the skirt. As marec says, it sometimes happens that a too-short stitch length restricts the drape. I've seen it in my own sewing, and sometimes I even sew lengthwise seams in a woven with the narrowest zigzag to allow yet more 'give.'

And as Marie says, a lighter hem finish is a good idea, too. It could be instructive to re-do the hem as she suggests.

Bren
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Date: 9/22/12 1:54 PM

The grainline is probably down the center front, which makes an A-line skirt kick out at the sides. A designer friend told me years ago that she always cut A-line skirts with the grainline down the side seam to prevent this. I have done it and it does work. Sandra Betzina says the most flattering grainline is in the center of each panel. The different options are discussed and illustrated in Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts, Skirts, and Pants (pages 151 and 152). If you don't have a copy, you can search on books.google.com and find it. For a dress, the subject is more complicated, but this is something to consider. I would love to see the comments of the more experienced people here. I didn't post the link because it is several lines long, but I searched on "grainline skirt".

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to Bren <<


Date: 9/22/12 6:43 PM

Quote: Bren
The grainline is probably down the center front, which makes an A-line skirt kick out at the sides. A designer friend told me years ago that she always cut A-line skirts with the grainline down the side seam to prevent this. I have done it and it does work. Sandra Betzina says the most flattering grainline is in the center of each panel. The different options are discussed and illustrated in Easy Guide to Sewing Tops and T-Shirts, Skirts, and Pants (pages 151 and 152). If you don't have a copy, you can search on books.google.com and find it. For a dress, the subject is more complicated, but this is something to consider. I would love to see the comments of the more experienced people here. I didn't post the link because it is several lines long, but I searched on "grainline skirt".

Huh thanks for the tip! I have never had this problem before, but I prefer having a solution for the problem before the problem arises lol :)

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Zaneta
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Zaneta
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Date: 9/24/12 8:45 AM

Thank you to everyone who has helped me fix this problem! I have since released the tension in the stitching and it has improved a little. It is meant to be my mock up dress so I am not too upset it still looks lovely and will be wearing it to work tomorrow.. Thanks again to everyone out there, patternreview is such a special place.

Kind Regards

Zaneta

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